Before Your Thoughts Turn to Turkey...

It's easy in the weeks leading up to Thanksgiving to lose sight of everything but turkey and what to have with it. After Thanksgiving? I don't know about you, but the weeks between late November and early January are always a complete blur with too much going on.

So I'll be suggesting some wines in the next few weeks that you might want to get in the house before the Holiday Zanies hit. My time-saving hint is to buy three bottles of them if you think you will like the way they taste and know that you and your family will be eating lots of the food that I suggest as perfect pairings for the bottle in question. That way, you will have one less thing to worry about.

My pick for this week is perfect if:

• you like chili, like this easy chicken chili that makes enough for your average-sized army
• you pick up burgers on the way home
• you have plans to make a big pot of minestrone soup with your slow-cooker
• your idea of a big family meal is roast beef
• Friday night comfort food involves macaroni and cheese

If any of these describe you, try to get your hands on some 2007 Guglielmo Family Winery Petite Sirah Private Reserve. (suggested retail, $19) This is, hands down, one of the nicest examples of this hearty grape I've had in some time. It is rich, warm, and perfect for winter meals. Delicious aromas of mocha, blackberry, and plum blossom provide a hint of the range of flavors to come: more mocha, tobacco, plum, and some smoky cigarbox notes. This smooth, mouth-coating wine is a bit lighter on its feet than many domestic examples, and slightly lower in alcohol, too, which is welcome news to me. The result is a food-friendly Petite Sirah that doesn't leave you feeling like you've had an unfortunate encounter with a hammer the next morning. Excellent QPR.

Full Disclosure: I received a sample of this wine for review.

Keeping Things Light with Sauvignon Blanc

If you aren't downing bowls of pasta and stew, then you might be trying to keep things light in the weeks leading up to the holidays.

Should fish, salads, and lots of vegetables feature in your upcoming menu plans, you will want to have some Sauvignon Blanc on hand. Sauvignon Blanc is a grape that can be used to make wines in any number of styles: from smoky and rich to round and melony to sharp and grassy. With fish and salads, I find that the sharper Sauvignon Blancs really bring out the clean tastes of the seafood and the fresh crispness of salads and vegetables.

Year in, year out, I turn to Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand when I want a sharp, grassy wine. And more often than not, the wine I reach for as my standby is the widely available, appealingly affordable Cupcake Vineyards bottling.

The most recent version is the 2010 Cupcake Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. (suggested retail, $14; available in the market for $7-$12) This is another winning vintage, with tart gooseberry, lime, and cut grass aromas and flavors. The wine has plenty of fresh acidity, and a juicy, citrusy aftertaste that will bring almost any fish, chicken, or vegetable dish to life. Excellent QPR.

We tried it with a recipe in a recent Food & Wine Magazine: grilled shrimp salad with avocado-citrus salad. It was an outstanding combination, with the acidity of the wine playing off the rich avocado, the grassy notes pulling out the cilantro used in the recipe, and the lime and other citrus elements combining beautifully with the orange, lime, and tomatoes in the dish.

Full Disclosure: I received a sample of this wine for review.

Comforting Weekend Wine and Food Pairings

So, it's the weekend again. Nearly. Almost. If you are biting your nails waiting for 5 pm today, you aren't alone. This time of year it's easy to feel a bit frazzled and in need of some major comfort.

I have three wine suggestions--sparkling, white, and red--and three recipe ideas for you. One menu is vegetarian, one is easy to prep and bakes in the oven (filling your house with yummy aromas and giving you some time to put your feet up), and one is a fun twist on a family favorite.

Brie, Apple, and Arugula Quesadillas with NV Presto! Prosecco Brut
(10.99, Whole Foods; available elsewhere for around $11)
You may have seen this recipe in the latest Cooking Light. It's delicious, fast, and as good for brunch or lunch as it is for dinner. Brimming with gooey cheese, crisp apple, and peppery arugula, what's not to like? Pair it with a softly citrus sparkling wine like this one, and it tastes even better. The wine is a shade past brut in my opinion, with a nice yeastiness to accompany the citrus elements. The fruit aromas and flavors are a lively counterpoint to the apples and the bubbles cut the richness of the Brie a bit. Very good QPR.

Meatloaf and 2008 Meridian Vineyards Merlot
(suggested retail, $9; available for $8)
Meatloaf has to be one of the all-time most comforting foods. I always use the same recipe from the revised Joy of Cooking that includes ketchup, lots of onions, three eggs, and a cup of quick oats instead of the usual breadcrumbs. You can make meatloaf as light or as rich as you want by using lower-fat proteins like turkey or chicken, but we always go for good old ground beef. With it? Merlot. It's the perfect match. I was impressed by the very good QPR of this bottle of wine, with its rich blackberry and plum aromas. Expect flavors of cocoa, plum, and dark chocolate, with a rich, mocha aftertaste. This wine stands up to the meatloaf, with a nicely plush texture that complements the food.

Hot Dogs with Cheddar and Apples and 2009 Schloss Castell Silvaner Trocken
(available for around $12)
Hot Dogs are a guilty pleasure, one that I indulge in rarely. When I do, I want to enjoy them without any excuses. Finally, I found a recipe that elevates the simple hot dog to an even greater treat: hot dogs in pretzel rolls with sauteed apples and cheddar cheese. Kids will adore them, but grownups will gobble them up, too. The recipe provided an interesting pairing challenge, given the slight sweetness of the hot dogs which was accentuated by the apples. The answer was a dry Silvaner from Germany, with its pure apple aromas and flavors. This is a dry wine, but there is a slightly honeyed note in the finish which made it ideal for hot dogs and apples. Expect a fresh, stony, even slightly saline element in the wine, too--like smelling a beach after a rainstorm. Delicious, and excellent QPR.

Full Disclosure: I received samples of the Silvaner and Merlot for review.

Classic, Classy California Chardonnay

California Chardonnay has a bad reputation. Years of overproduced, overly-oaked wines left a sour taste in the mouths of many wine drinkers. But a few (or a thousand) bad winemaking choices shouldn't make you abandon a grape entirely. Recently, I've seen many winemakers going back to classy Chardonnays that are more restrained in style and more focused on the characteristics of the grape.

The 2008 Fess Parker Chardonnay is one of those wines--and I think it may be the finest under $20 California Chardonnay I've ever tasted. (suggested retail $18; available for $14-$20) This is a beautiful example of what Chardonnay grapes can achieve in Santa Barbara. The wine introduces itself with buttered apple aromas. Creamy apple and melon flavors are followed by a toasted coconut note in the aftertaste. Rich and smooth, this wine represents excellent QPR and may restore your faith in California Chardonnay.

Try this wine with a seasonally appropriate soup of apples and parsnips, some Tandoori chicken legs cooked on the grill or roasted in the oven, or crab cakes accented with an apple-and-cilantro salad. The apple notes are a terrific companion to the warm spices and fresh flavors of all these foods, and as each recipe uses curry powder the coconut and melon accents in this wine are really brought forward.

Full Disclosure: I received a sample of this wine for review.

A Great Wine for Harvest Time

How does your garden grow? Mine is still going great guns, filled mainly with herbs like a mammoth Greek columnar basil, drifts of Thai basil, and piles of oregano and thyme. My friends who plant vegetables are swimming in tomatoes, zucchini, and late green beans.

Now that we're entering autumn in earnest, you might be looking for a wine that goes well with vegetables, foods that use up your abundant herbs, and other seasonal foods such as orchard fruits.

If so, keep your eyes peeled for the 2009 Schloss Saarstein Pinot Blanc (available for around $13). This excellent QPR wine greeted me with apple aromas and a bit of spritz on the tongue at first. There were richer apple and lemon custard notes in the flavors. The juiciness of fresh orchard fruits in the aftertaste encouraged me to come back to the glass for another sip--and another.

In addition to autumnal foods, this wine would be terrific with milder Asian cuisine. We had it with Thai curried noodles with pork and Thai basil straight from the garden. The apple and citrus flavors were a bright counterpoint to the aromatic spices of the dish.

Full Disclosure: I received a sample of this wine.

Celebrate Autumn with Cabernet Sauvignon

Today is the first day of autumn, when a person's thoughts turn to casseroles, soups, and red wine. Here in Los Angeles, the weather has been cool and foggy and very autumnal. Even though we're due for a last blast of summer temperatures over the weekend, my taste buds are ready for warming, comforting food and wine.

If your taste buds are turning in this direction, too, you might be looking for a good Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2007 Concannon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Conservancy is worth seeking out for its excellent QPR. (suggested retail $15, but you can find it in some markets for around $11) Warm, layered aromas of cassis, black cherry, and licorice invite you to sip the wine, and when you do these notes are echoed in the flavors. An herbal taste can be coaxed out as the wine gets some air, and the aftertaste is rich and plummy.

This Cabernet would go nicely with most autumn soups, stews, and roasts. We had it with a comforting, savory Shepherd's Pie topped with sweet potato. The savory gravy--made with Worcestershire and a dash of mustard--brought out the herbal flavors and the beef and potatoes were a nice pairing with the wine's rich fruit.

Full Disclosure: I received a sample of this wine.

Yes, I Bought It Because of the Name...

There are many reasons to buy wine. You like the producer. You like the grape. You like the label. You like the designation--like the time last year I splurged wildly and bought a wine simply because it was the "Plague Doctor's Cuvee."

And yes, sometimes you buy it because of the name of the vineyard. Because with a name like "Jurassic Park" it has to be good, right?

Thankfully, the answer is yes.

I thoroughly enjoyed the 2008 Field Recordings Wine Chenin Blanc Jurassic Park Vineyard (domaineLA, $15; available elsewhere for the same price) This lovely, unfiltered Chenin Blanc was a touch cloudy in the glass. It had pronounced aromas and flavors of lemon curd, touched with mineral notes and a bit of freshly mown hay. The overall impression was a well-balanced mix of citrus, stone, and grass that was refreshing and impressive for the price. Excellent QPR.

(And the label isn't half bad, either...)

A wine with this much balance can handle almost any food. We are drowning in Thai basil at the moment, and so made some Thai-influenced grilled chicken breasts. The strong herbal flavors were a nice counterpoint to the lemony aspects of this wine, and picked up the grassy notes, too.

Yes, I Bought It Because of the Label

Dachshunds. We have 'em. So does Jill, the owner of my local wine store domaineLA. So when I saw that she had a wine with a dachshund label in stock, I didn't care if it was red or white or good or bad--I had to have it. A This great photo of the label comes from the McDuff's Food and Wine Trail blog, where you can check out a review of the 2007 version of this wine.

Turns out the wine is red--made from Gamay grapes. And it turns out the wine is excellent--and represents excellent QPR, too, at $15. ($15, domaineLA) Not surprisingly, Jill includes it in her "wall of affordable deliciousness" at the store.

The 2009 Thierry Puzelat Le Telquel is a totally fun, totally raspberry wine. There is a hint of a spritz on the tongue at first, which I didn't think detracted at all from the pure raspberry aromas and flavors of this wine. There were some earthy, floral, and spice notes as well, but the fruit really is the star here. It is terrific served a bit cooler than you might serve other reds, which makes if perfect for drinking right now. I should note, however, that this would also be a great pick for Thanksgiving tables, too, given its affordability and Gamay's nack for pairing with a wide range of foods.

We had this wine with the the best barbecued chicken we've had this summer (or maybe ever): Mike Sheerin of Blackbird restaurant's Twice-Glazed Asian barbecued chicken. The glaze includes roasted garlic, soy, and toasted black peppercorns which makes for a spicy, flavorful chicken that coaxes the pepper and spice out of this wine and makes an excellent counterpoint for the raspberry fruit.

I Will Survive: the Benefits of Bubbles

At the end of a long week, nothing says comfort and relaxation like a bottle of afffordable bubbles. Even though it's Thursday, plan ahead for tomorrow night and look for a sparkling wine that won't break the bank like the one below. It will remind you that you WILL survive, even though it doesn't always seem possible. (this great bottle shot is from Brooklynguy's Wine and Food Blog, where you can read his review of the same wine for comparison).

N.V. Latitude 50 sparkling wine is made from Pinot Noir grapes (Spatburgunder, in German parlance). Made in the dry, sekt style, this wine represents excellent QPR for under $20. (domaineLA, $16.99) It is a pale, but true, rose color in the bottle and the glass. When poured, there is plenty of froth and foam that dissipates quickly. Faint aromas of wild strawberry and bread dough may have you thinking this wine will be light in taste. Instead, rich and round strawberry flavors cling to the tongue with added notes of notes of toasted bread and clay. The aftertaste picks up some pleasantly bitter nuances that add complexity to the wine and keep it tasting dry.

With your sparkling wine, the perfect comfort pairing: potato chips. Chomp on your favorite, or splurge and buy Kettle Chips. I highly recommend their new "fully loaded" flavor, which will not overwhelm this rich sparkler.

This Time, I'm Thinking IN the Box

Boxed wine has a terrible reputation in some circles. Critics charge that boxed wines lack distinction and have a manufactured taste.

In other circles, however, boxed wines are preferable. And this doesn't just include folks who throw lots of big parties. Single drinkers who live alone and can have problems keeping a wine from oxidizing before they have a chance to drink it also like boxed wines because the packaging often ensures that the wine inside is free from air contact--thereby keeping the wine as fresh tasting as possible.

So just in time for big Labor Day parties or for unpacking the belongings in your new studio apartment, I've got reviews of two wines that are packaged in Octavins. These are eight-sided boxes that contain a bag of wine with a spout that you poke through the front when you are ready to open your wine. You can learn more about the packaging here. The spouts themselves have a nifty and sturdy turning mechanism that makes them easy to pour and (more importantly) easy to turn off again. Inside each Octavin container is the equivalent of four bottles of wine, and the average cost for an Octavin nationally is around $20-$24--which makes the wine inside a genuine bargain--and for the two wines that I tasted, excellent QPR.

First up is the 2008 BOHO Vineyards Zinfandel Old Vines from California. This wine had a nice mix of blackberry fruit, some pepper, and some spice. It was very smooth in the mouth, and though definitely on the jammy side it still had some acidity and lightness which is to be prized in a wine of this price. Though not terribly complex, it is a nice, drinkable red that will go wonderfully with barbecue, grilled sausages or steaks, and hamburgers and hot dogs.

Next up is the 2009 Silver Birch Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand's Marlborough region. This was another example of a great wine for the price, with abundant grapefruit and bitter lemon aromas and flavors, accompanied by a bit of lime. There was none of the grassiness that often comes with higher priced bottlings from this part of the world, but it was nonetheless a refreshing and nicely balanced example of a citrusy Sauvignon Blanc that would pair nicely with grilled fish, chicken, or salads.

Full Disclosure: I received these wines as samples.

Note to Self: Syrah Can Be Stunning

Because of my special niche in the world of wine reviews, there are times when I have to deliberately uncork a bottle of wine that is MORE than $20. It usually happens when I've sipped 15 terrible/insipid/manufactured iterations of grape X and can no longer remember what the hell it's supposed to taste like.

This recently happened with Syrah. I love Syrah. It is arguably my preferred red grape, and appears in my favorite red blends from the Rhone. Bad Syrah, however, is nasty. As in cough syrup nasty. And after a dozen bottles of nasty, I just swear off the stuff for a while because it hurts my heart to see people treat grapes--especially grapes from the Rhone--badly.

I was touting up what I'd tasted so far this year and realized I'd only found four bottles of Syrah that were remotely drinkable. So I plucked out a bottle I was pretty sure would deliver a reminder of how stunning Syrah can be: the 2006 Zaca Mesa Syrah from the Santa Ynez Valley. (suggested retail $23; available for $15-23) This is not a gentle Syrah, but a big, rich, in-your-face, mouth-coating wine that is a total steal for the price, delivers excellent QPR, and drinks like a wine that costs twice or three times what you will have paid for it. My only caveat about this wine is this: do not even think about having a glass of it and trying to walk in a straight line. The label says 15% alc./vol. and I believe it--and then some.

In the taste department, expect exotic aromas of summery flowers and plums, with a bit of clove around the edges. There are more plum and clove notes in the flavors, along with allspice and mocha. There's a nifty mocha jolt in the aftertaste, too. Very good, nicely made, and a reminder of what Syrah can be all about.

Most people reach for Cabernet when they're making steak, but I love Syrah with cuts like skirt steak that have been marinated for a long time and then popped on the grill. We paired this bottle with a skirt steak marinated in orange and ale and the spicy, coffee, and clove notes in the Syrah were just lovely with the citrus in the marinade. And the robust wine handled the beef nicely.

Full Disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

No Time for Rosé? This Will Change Your Mind

I love rosés. They are affordable, food-friendly wines as I've said on many occasions. At home at summer barbeques, and welcome on Thanksgiving tables, there are lots of times when a rosé is the right wine choice.

So I'm always surprised when people tell me they don't do rosé. Huh? I know--just know--that they're thinking of some horribly sweet White Zinfandel ca. 1987, rather than a crisp, dry wine like the one I'm recommending here. It is, hands down, the best rosé I've ever tasted. And I've been tasting some awfully good rosés lately. But there's something special about this wine, so if you can find it give it a try and see if it doesn't impress you, too.

The 2009 Cep Vineyards Sonoma Coast Rosé is made from Pinot Noir grapes grown in my favorite of all viticultural regions. It is, quite simply, perfect. ($19.49 in my local independent grocery store; available elsewhere for $17-$20) Like the picture shows, it is a true, pale salmon. Lovely, rich aromas of warm strawberry rise up from the glass along with something stonier that reminds me of a wet beach and a touch of baked earth. The flavors are pure strawberry, too, with little mineral inflections along the way. The wine is very dry, yet it retains a juicy aftertaste. Excellent QPR for a rosé that delivers rich, full flavor without a drop of sweetness.

And don't blame me if you are looking for this in November and it's sold out. Buy some now--before I buy all the bottles left at K&L.

Ode to Joy, Ode to Lulu: a Rosé That Lives Up to the Hype

Sometimes, I can be very ornery. When there's lots of hype, I think, "Nothing is THAT good." Memorable occasions when I've been proven wrong were Chariots of Fire (still one of the best movies ever made) and Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone (goes without saying).

There's a rosé that's been getting a fair bit of hype lately, and when I saw a bottle of the latest vintage on the shelf at my local grocery store, I had to give it a try.

I'm glad I did, because it turns out the hype was merited. The 2009 Bedrock Wine Co. Ode to Lulu Rosé is a lusty, zaftig rosé that may make you hum Ode to Joy. ($19.99 in my local independent grocery store; available elsewhere for $17-$22) As I sipped this, it seemed to me that the high points the previous vintage received from major wine magazines might actually be a bit stingy. There were very dry aromas: just a waft of strawberry wrapped around lime zest and chalk. I got no watermelon candy taste at all--something I taste in a lot of rosés these days. Instead, there was strawberry fruit, with a lovely stoniness that kept it focused. This wine left a beautifully rich taste in the mouth, a nice nod at the Mourvedre grapes that went into the bottle. Excellent QPR.

Given its rich, dry flavor profile the Bedrock Wine Co.'s Ode to Lulu can stand up to a wide variety of summery fare, from BBQ ribs to grilled tuna salade niçoise, and from hot dogs to peel-and-eat shrimp with zesty cocktail sauce.

Pinot Noir--Both Red and Rosé

I'm writing from the Sonoma Coast appellation as I often do this time of year, and it wouldn't be proper if I didn't include a post about the coast's favorite grape: Pinot Noir. Today, I'm highlighting the versatility of the grape by writing about a traditional red Pinot Noir, as well as a rosé made with the grape--and both are under $20. In addition, I'm tipping you off about what just may be the best value in Pinot Noir. Period. It is a little pricier than most wines I review here at just under $30, but drinks like a wine that is easily twice or perhaps even three times the price.

First up, we have the 2007 The Other Guys Pinot Noir Moobuzz ($17.99 in my local independent grocery store; available for $11-$18) Underneath a truly bizarre closure that must be peeled and then tugged, this wine goes through an awkward stage when first opened, when I detected a strong note of acetone in the aromas. It settles down quickly, though, to more appealing aromas of red raspberries, huckleberries, a touch of high-toned pomegranate. These red fruit aromas are evident in the flavors as well, along with additional earthy and spicy notes (especially baking spices like allspice, cloves, and cinnamon). A decent food wine, think of this when you're serving some grilled salmon this summer. Very good QPR.

For another very good QPR Pinot Noir, think pink. The 2009 Fort Ross Pinot Noir Rosé from nearby Fort Ross Vineyard is a delicious wine that expands your sense of the grape into the land of affordable summertime sippers. ($11.99 in my local independent grocery store; available elsewhere for around the same price) The wine is surprisingly dark in color--a rich, deep tea rose--but the aromas and flavors are quite dry and laced with mineral notes. You will find strawberry and herbal flavors and aromas, too. The aftertaste is dry, but retains its mouthwatering juiciness.

And finally, I recommend the excellent QPR 2008 Cep Vineyards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast. ($25.99 in my local independent grocery store; available elsewhere for $23-$31) It used to be something of a hush-hush matter that this was Peay Vineyard's second label, but it's all over the web now. This is perhaps the best value in under $30, made by talented winemakers with some amazing fruit that just wasn't quite up to their high standards. This wine is quite young at present, which translates into "quite spicy" so give it some time in a cool dark place or some time to open up before you drink it now. (It would be a lovely wine for holiday dinners in November and December, by the way). Its raspberry, orange peel, clove, and allspice aromas and flavors are scrumptious and a perfect lead in to the flavors that follow. As wine opened there were mineral, cinnamon, and herbal notes, too. This wine is very complex for the price, and with a classic--and classy--Sonoma Coast profile.

Beating the Bordeaux Blues

So, how are your purchases of 2009 Bordeaux futures coming along? If, like me, you decided to sit out the hysteria this year (the prices are epic and the hysteria just as epic), you may be feeling a little blue. For me, its budgetary. I just don't eat enough of the kind of food that goes with a fantastic bottle of aged Bordeaux to warrant the splurge. Riesling or Champagne? That's another matter.

It's not that I don't like the taste of Bordeaux wines--I do. But I think I've got enough 2003 bottles in my cellar (none of which will be ready to drink for another few years) to keep me going.

Meanwhile, if you are watching/listening/participating in the 2009 Futures Follies, you may want a nice bottle of Bordeaux to go with it. Here are two bottles--one unusual bottle from Bordeaux and one Bordeaux-like bottle from California--that will help see you through the process.

The first bottle I'm recommending is the 2007 Château Tire Pé DieM ($7.99, Garagiste; available currently for $10-$14) This is not your father's Bordeaux, but it's just fantastic. Imagine, if you will, the vinous love child of a wine from Bordeaux and one from the Beaujolais and you've pretty much got this wine. It's a classic blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon that oozes personality and old world charm but is much lighter in weight than most bottlings from this part of France, which tend to be heavy, complex, and age-worthy. The first impression of the wine is crushed raspberries, some soil, and some rocks--very Beaujolais, in my book. The feeling of the wine is silky in the mouth. Then the funkier notes kick in, along with some vegetal greenness, some spice, and a hint of pencil lead--all very Bordeaux. And it's a terrific excellent QPR buy that certainly constitutes a great candidate for a house red (and when was the last time you said THAT about 2007 Bordeaux??) For food pairings, think of any foods you would pair with Gamay or Cabernet Franc, such as roasted chicken, sausages, or pork.

If you are looking for a heavier, more complicated wine made with true Bordeaux style, reach for the 2007 Trefethen Double T (available for $16-28) from the Napa Valley. I was extremely pleased with this blend that includes all five classic Bordeaux varieties. The wine was unusually complex for an excellent QPR bottling, with cassis, plum, and tobacco leaf aromas. Layered cassis, graphite, and herbal notes are present in the flavors, with a juicy aftertaste that lingers long enough to invite you back for another taste. Excellent with heartier fare, like this molasses/mustard marinated pork tenderloin.

Full Disclosure: I received the Trefethen Double-T as a sample.

Looking for Grapes In All the Wrong Places

People have different ways of locating good wine values. Some shop the sales, while others haunt the box stores. A few turn their backs on their favorites--Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, sparkling wine--and settle for something they're less fond of hoping it will suit their tastebuds.

My number one budget strategy (other than finding yourself a good wine retailer who will get to know your taste in wine and can steer you away from costly errors) is quite simple, can be done in any store, and is neither a strategy based on abstinence or rock-bottom clearances. Here it is:

Look for grapes in all the wrong places.

Certain regions become justifiably famous for producing a single grape--like Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa, or Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley--and this means that growers can command the highest prices for their wines. But Cabernet Sauvignon is not the only grape grown in Napa Valley. Trust me on this. Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling (rare, but it's there!) are excellent and represent excellent value, too, because really, when is the last time you heard anybody ask "Do you have any Napa Riesling??"

Here are a few of my recent finds that fit the "great grape in a surprising place" mantra for wine value.

Verdelho, Albariño and Grüner Veltliner--From Clarksburg: Dancing Coyote may just be the greatest value wine producer you aren't drinking--yet. But if you see a cavorting coyote on a wine label, buy it and try it. You are going to be amazed at the taste and quality inside the bottle. Dancing Coyote is in Clarksburg, CA along the Sacramento River delta. I tasted a number of their wines (and reviewed their Petite Sirah a little while ago) and all of them were impressive. The whites were especially excellent QPR, however, and made with grapes that are normally associated with the Iberian Peninsula or Austria. The 2009 Dancing Coyote Verdelho (suggested retail, $10.99; available for $8-$14) was fresh and clean, and had well-balanced flavors of apple and lemonade with a bit of spritz. Try it with some spicy shrimp and chorizo kebabs for a fast weeknight supper. The 2009 Dancing Coyote Albariño (suggested retail $10.99; available for $8 -$10) had loads of green apple flavors and aromas, with citrus threaded through. And the 2009 Dancing Coyote Grüner Veltliner (suggested retail $10.99, and available through the winery) is a terrific example of domestic Grüner Veltliner, with typical grapefruit, lentil, and dust aromas and flavors. A bit more full and round than an Austrian example, this went well with pasta with ham and asparagus.

Pinot Gris from Australia: When you think Pinot Gris you may think Alsace or even Italy--but not Australia. The 2009 Innocent Bystander Pinot Gris from Australia's Yarra Valley (suggested retail $15; available between $13 and $23) demands you reconsider this notion. It had a distinctive aroma profile of muted mandarin orange and nectarine. The flavors included notes notes of white nectarine, white peach, and Meyer lemon. Nicely balanced between fruit and acidity, this was an excellent QPR winner from Innocent Bystander.

Chardonnay from Italy: When I think Chardonnay I think California or France--not Italy. But Italy makes some beautiful Chardonnay, including the excellent QPR 2008 Tormaresca Chardonnay from Puglia (available for between $9 and $13). Straightforward, clean pear and apple aromas and flavors, with slight citrus inflections and no discernible oak, which was a nice change of pace. It was terrific with Ina Garten's Szechuan peanut noodles.

Malbec from California: Americans have finally discovered Malbec, which is a good thing since it's a terrific red grape with roots that extend back into French viticultural history. Now, Malbec is most often associated with Argentina, but it's grown in California, too.The 2008 Red Rock Winery Malbec Reserve is an exceptional Malbec for the price (suggested retail $10.99; available for $8-$14), with a "blue" flavor profile of blueberries and huckleberries. The aromas are accented at first with white flowers, and a nice note of baking chocolate enters into the aftertaste. For $11? Excellent QPR.

Full Disclosure: I received these wines as samples.

Wine for Tomato Season: Grechetto

If the tomatoes aren't yet bursting on the vines where you are, it's only a matter of time. Tomatoes are an interesting wine pairing challenge. The acidity and sweet edge of fresh tomatoes can fight with some wines, and be overwhelmed by others.

Enter Grechetto. Grechetto has been grown in Umbria for centuries (I was corrected on this point when I drank an earlier vintage of this wine!). And it goes great with fresh tomato dishes, like caprese salad or this fantastic roasted cherry tomato pasta dish which uses barely blistered tomatoes to make a delicious sauce for spaghetti.

The 2008 Arnaldo-Caprai Grechetto Grecante (available for $16-$20) tasted quite different to me than the one that I drank in October 2008. That might be because that one had been in the bottle a bit longer, and was deeper in color and richer in taste as a result. This bottling--at least at this time--was much paler in color. The aromas reminded me of preserved lemons--the Moroccan kind, with salt. This aroma is echoed in the flavors, which take on savory herbal notes as well which will draw out the flavor of any herbs you use with your fresh tomatoes. Deliciously complex, dry, and not your ordinary summer white. Excellent QPR.

Full disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

Sizing Up Sauvignon Blanc

Summertime. And the living is hot. (image from DKC Service)

Sauvignon Blanc always has the effect of a liquid air conditioner on me. One cool glass and I can feel my core temperature drop and imagine a fresh breeze on my skin.

It would be an understatement to say that there is a lot of Sauvignon Blanc in the market. Let's face it: there's tons of the stuff. It comes from nearly every region of the globe, and finding your way among the options can be a bit daunting. Happily, most bottles are eminently affordable, which makes it possible to experiment without facing bankruptcy.

I must confess that I have a predilection (especially when the temperature rises) for Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand, which are the epitome of refreshment. But don't forget that regions closer to home, like the Napa Valley, make excellent Sauvignon Blanc, too. Check out some of my favorites below.

2009 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc (available for $12-$20) This classic Marlborough Sauvignon blank shouts "citrus!" with abundant grapefruit and lime notes, accented with grassy nuances. In some vintages, this wine can be a bit assertive for me, but the 2009 was delightfully balanced and has very good QPR.

2009 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc Icon (suggested retail $22; available for $14-$25) Another New Zealand bottling, the very good QPR Nobilo has piercing aromas and flavors of lime zest, herbs, and green tea. If Crawford shouts "Citrus!" this wine shouts "Green!" even though its not grassy. The wine is quite complex, and it would be interesting to see how this would pair with Thanksgiving dinner come November, so pick up a few bottles while you're in the store.

2008 Franciscan Oakville Estate Sauvignon Blanc (suggested retail $17; available for $12-20). This lovely domestic example of Sauvignon Blanc is rounder, with nicely-balanced notes of Crenshaw melon, hay, and lemon pith. Fresh but robust enough to stand up to lemon-grilled chicken or a rich fish like Halibut. Not assertive, this wine shows the Napa sunshine in its warmer fruit profile. Very good QPR.

2009 Cupcake Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc (suggested retail $14; available for $7-13). My final recommendation is another affordable New Zealand example with excellent QPR. In this bottle you will find focused Meyer lemon, pink grapefruit, and lime aromas and flavors. Very refreshing, and excellent with fish, salads, and other summer fare. Don't be surprised if this becomes your leading contender for a summer house wine.

Full Disclosure: I received these wines as samples.

Mighty Fine Malbec

Malbec just tastes right this time of year. In the summer, I always try to keep a few bottles on hand for cookouts, and whenever I go shopping there always are new bottles I want to try.

This wine, though, counts as a familiar favorite--one of those wine friends that we know we'll enjoy spending time with. The 2008 Clos de los Siete Clos de Los Siete is made by Michael Rolland from grapes grown in the Mendoza region of Argentina. This rich, smooth blend traditional Bordeaux grapes (suggested retail, $19; available for $15-$20) including not only Malbec but Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, has excellent QPR with its plum, herb, and espresso notes. There is some smokiness in the aftertaste, making it a wonderful partner for grilled food such as steak, chicken, pork, and sausages.

Malbec goes very well with Mexican cuisine, and we had it with Chile-Spiced Skirt Steak Tacos. The Ancho and Chipotle chile powders in the marinade add a rich, flavorful dimension to the meat that is perfect with a rich, smoky wine like the Clos Los Siete.

Full Disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

The Zaftig Wine with the Petite Name: Petite Sirah

As I've said before, there is nothing "petite" about Petite Sirah. This is a grape that produces big, blowsy wines with intense fruit flavors and a lushness that stands up to almost anything you throw at it--grilled steaks, hamburgers, chili, stew, and summer's favorite BBQ.

Finding a Petite Sirah for under $20 that doesn't tend towards the cough syrup side of the spectrum, however, can be a bit of a challenge. Lush is good, but syrupy is not.

If you like big, bold reds give one of these beauties a try.

2007 Concannon Vineyard Petite Sirah Conservancy Livermore Valley (suggested retail $15; available from $13) This is a dark and brooding Petite Sirah with plum and black cherry notes in the aromas. Your first sips will confirm that impression, but in the aftertaste the flavors linger and turn darker with a tarry edge that keeps the wine interesting. Very good QPR.

2008 Dancing Coyote Petite Sirah ($10.99) This steal from Clarksburg has terrific varietal characteristics and is a bit lighter on its feet than many Petite Sirah. I loved the black cherry, mocha, and roast coffee aromas and flavors and the balance between fruit and acidity in the wine. The aftertaste was nicely spicy, as well. Excellent QPR.

Full Disclosure: I received these wines as samples.