Cal-Italians for Pizza and Pasta

It really feels like autumn here in Southern California. And before you laugh, yes, we DO have seasons (they're screwy, but we have 'em). There's a whole lot of stew, soup, and pasta being cooked up in my house these days, whereas a month ago if it couldn't be cooked on the grill it wasn't on our table.

Today I have two picks for your pizza and pasta nights--and if your calendar looks like mine does between Halloween and New Year's Eve that means most nights of the week. Both of them come from California, but are made with traditional Italian grapes: Sangiovese and Dolcetto. When you are having tomato-based dishes and want to serve a red wine, it's important to pick one with good acidity and not too much tannins (that pucker on the sides of your tongue). So if you can't find one of these selections, ask your local retailer for their suggestions.

First up is the 2008 Ortman Family Vineyards O2 Series Sangiovese. (suggested retail, $17; available for $17-$22)This is a rich, layered wine that will pair beautifully with robust, meaty pasta dishes and spicy pizzas. The wine had aromas of cherry cola and chocolate. Expect to taste cherry, blackberry, dark chocolate, and spice as you sip the wine. The nicely layered quality of the flavors extends into a juicy finish, with plenty of acidity to keep the wine from getting heavy. Very good QPR.

The other wine to try is the 2007 Naughty Boy Dolcetto ($15.99 in my local independent grocery store; available for $15-$17). The grapes for this wine were grown in the cool Mendocino County AVA, and they made a very enjoyable wine with kirsch, blackberry, and licorice aromas. When sipped, the wine was smooth on the tongue with cherry, blackberry and pepper notes. There was a slightly smoky aftertaste, which made the wine ideal with an easy, hearty eggplant bolognese. Try it with sausage or mushroom pizza, too. Very good QPR.

Full Disclosure: I received a sample of the Ortman Sangiovese for review.

Comforting Weekend Wine and Food Pairings

So, it's the weekend again. Nearly. Almost. If you are biting your nails waiting for 5 pm today, you aren't alone. This time of year it's easy to feel a bit frazzled and in need of some major comfort.

I have three wine suggestions--sparkling, white, and red--and three recipe ideas for you. One menu is vegetarian, one is easy to prep and bakes in the oven (filling your house with yummy aromas and giving you some time to put your feet up), and one is a fun twist on a family favorite.

Brie, Apple, and Arugula Quesadillas with NV Presto! Prosecco Brut
(10.99, Whole Foods; available elsewhere for around $11)
You may have seen this recipe in the latest Cooking Light. It's delicious, fast, and as good for brunch or lunch as it is for dinner. Brimming with gooey cheese, crisp apple, and peppery arugula, what's not to like? Pair it with a softly citrus sparkling wine like this one, and it tastes even better. The wine is a shade past brut in my opinion, with a nice yeastiness to accompany the citrus elements. The fruit aromas and flavors are a lively counterpoint to the apples and the bubbles cut the richness of the Brie a bit. Very good QPR.

Meatloaf and 2008 Meridian Vineyards Merlot
(suggested retail, $9; available for $8)
Meatloaf has to be one of the all-time most comforting foods. I always use the same recipe from the revised Joy of Cooking that includes ketchup, lots of onions, three eggs, and a cup of quick oats instead of the usual breadcrumbs. You can make meatloaf as light or as rich as you want by using lower-fat proteins like turkey or chicken, but we always go for good old ground beef. With it? Merlot. It's the perfect match. I was impressed by the very good QPR of this bottle of wine, with its rich blackberry and plum aromas. Expect flavors of cocoa, plum, and dark chocolate, with a rich, mocha aftertaste. This wine stands up to the meatloaf, with a nicely plush texture that complements the food.

Hot Dogs with Cheddar and Apples and 2009 Schloss Castell Silvaner Trocken
(available for around $12)
Hot Dogs are a guilty pleasure, one that I indulge in rarely. When I do, I want to enjoy them without any excuses. Finally, I found a recipe that elevates the simple hot dog to an even greater treat: hot dogs in pretzel rolls with sauteed apples and cheddar cheese. Kids will adore them, but grownups will gobble them up, too. The recipe provided an interesting pairing challenge, given the slight sweetness of the hot dogs which was accentuated by the apples. The answer was a dry Silvaner from Germany, with its pure apple aromas and flavors. This is a dry wine, but there is a slightly honeyed note in the finish which made it ideal for hot dogs and apples. Expect a fresh, stony, even slightly saline element in the wine, too--like smelling a beach after a rainstorm. Delicious, and excellent QPR.

Full Disclosure: I received samples of the Silvaner and Merlot for review.

Zinfandel: One for Now, One for Later

It's raining in Los Angeles, which means it's officially Zinfandel season. Every autumn, when the heat finally breaks, I look forward to making some soups, stews, and roasts and cracking open some excellent wine. Of course, Zinfandel season extends through the winter and even into the months of BBQ to come, so I've got one recommendation for now and one for you to put aside and drink in 6-24 months when the urge strikes you.

2008 Gnarly Head Zinfandel Old Vine is a very good QPR wine for the price (suggested retail $10.99; available for $6-$14) Autumnal blackberry and licorice aromas lead to a smooth, mouth-filling wine with blackberry, black cherry, and pepper notes in the flavors. The aftertaste rounded out the wine nicely, with more licorice and berry. Not as peppery and complex as some Zins, but it doesn't have the big, jammy quality that many have at this price point. Perfect for enjoying now, perhaps with a warm pot of minestrone if you are stuck at home giving out candy on Halloween.

The 2007 Guglielmo Family Winery Zinfandel Private Reserve is a good QPR bottling that I think will deliver very good QPR in time. (suggested retail $19; this new release is only available at this time through the winery) There are reticent berry aromas that can be coaxed forward with air, and lots of pepper and spicy clove on the palate. All are hints of great things to come for this wine, with its solid berry core. It is well-structured, has great acidity, and will start to shine in 6 months or so.

Full Disclosure: I received samples of these wines for review.

Keeping It Simple with a Cabernet from Down Under

It's back to school time at GWU$20, so life is more than usually hectic as I settle into the new routines and rhythms of the semester. During transitional moments such as these, it's wise to remember to keep it simple and keep it light--otherwise the stress can get to you. So that's my theme for this week's blog posts.

When it comes to wine, keeping it simple doesn't mean settling for a bland or boring example of a particular grape. But it does mean not spending much money, not worrying about whether this is the best "X" you've ever tasted, and not trying to impress your friends and family with something staggeringly complex and deserving of three hours of wine geek conversation. Keeping it simple means getting a good bottle, for a good price, and having a good time while you drink it.

Cabernet Sauvignon may seem like the wrong option if you're needing to keep things simple, but this bottle just may change your mind. The 2008 McWilliam's Cabernet Sauvignon Hanwood Estate is made with grapes from South Eastern Australia. (suggested retail, $11; available for under $10 in many markets) This is a very nice Cabernet Sauvignon for the price--and it actually tastes like Cabernet, rather than just "red wine." It has a characteristic aroma and flavor profile: red currants, blackberries, and white pepper. I detected a hint of something more like green pepper when it was first opened--which I happen to enjoy--but this note mellowed out very quickly. Very good QPR for a bottle that will remind you how good Cabernet can be when the maker doesn't out-think the test question and is content to let the juice shine.

The wine has smooth tannins, making it a good pairing for grilled meats yet it still stands up to something like eggplant that can overwhelm a lesser wine. Try this with this zesty pasta dish with grilled marinated eggplant, if you are looking for a satisfying vegetarian option to pair with Cabernet Sauvignon or similarly tannic grapes.

Full Disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

Bored With White Wine? Give a New Grape a Try

It's easy to fall into a wine rut. I love Sauvignon Blanc, but there are times when I just want something different, something I don't drink every day. Same thing with Riesling. Love it to bits, but there are times when I'm not sure I can bring myself to open another bottle.

If you're looking for something new--something that is dry, but not the same old/same old, look for a bottle of the 2008 Schloß Mühlenhof Müller-Thurgau Trocken. ($13.50, domaineLA; available for $11-$14 elsewhere) This dry wine from Germany's Rheinhessen region is like a cross between a Sauvignon Blanc and a Riesling. The grape was created in the late 19th century from a cross of Riesling and a grape called Madeleine Royale (a seedling of the Swiss Chasselas variety). Though the wines made with this grape can be sweet, this is a dry example, and will please people who like their whites to have fruit flavors, but exercise a bit of restraint. It has white nectarine and green apple aromas and flavors, as well as a hint of dry pineapple (I know, but that's what it tastes like) in the aftertaste.

This simple, pleasant wine is very good QPR and a nice change of pace. So if you're bored with white wine, don't get stuck. Just get out there and find something new to tempt your tastebuds.

Toasting Summer's End

Over the next few weeks, most of us will be saying goodbye to summer. Labor Day marks the official end for many, but some of us (me) are headed back into the classroom long before that. Many are getting their kids ready for school.

Take an opportunity before summer's warmth fades and the hectic back to school rush starts with a glass of sparkling wine. Even better, share it with somebody you love--or several somebodies. Invite friends over, chill a bottle of bubbles, and sit back and enjoy the long twilight.

If you're looking for a perfectly lighthearted, eminently enjoyable bottle, try the NV Gloria Ferrer Va de Vi Ultra Cuvée ($20.99 in my local independent grocery store; available for $14-$25). This pleasant domestic sparkler has a warm, pale yellow color. That soft, warm appearance is as summery as a sparkler gets, and a good indication of the gentle wine within. The wine is nicely frothy, and the bubbles are relatively fine which provides a smooth drinking experience. I detected aromas of pear and lemon, and these summery smells were echoed in the flavors along with some rich cherry notes and a hint of warm bread. This wine is technically "extra-dry" which means it is not quite as dry as a brut sparkling wine, and is made predominantly from Pinot Noir grapes with some Chardonnay and a touch of Muscat. I think it would be perfect for toasting the season with friends, and pairing with hors d'oeuvres and spicy or fried foods. Very good QPR.

The Great Australian Riesling Roundup

Time for a roundup of Rieslings to put some zip into your summer. When July turns into August, I always start hankering for some boiled spicy shrimp or a garlic and lemon marinated chicken to break up the BBQ sauce, hot dogs, and steaks that many of us have been indulging in since Memorial Day. If this is how you are feeling, there's nothing better to pair with these lively, vibrant summer alternatives than Riesling. And Australian Rieslings seem ideally suited to the warm temperatures and outdoor dining that dominate this part of the year.

Here are my recommendations, culled from Australian Rieslings I've enjoyed lately:

The 2008 Plantagenet Riesling is a very dry wine with aromas of petrol, lemon pith, and apple peel. (suggested retail $20; available for $13-$21) The flavors are a bit rounder--more like Granny Smith apples and litchi--but they remain dry. Excellent with seafood. Very good QPR, for this classically tasty wine.

Despite its name, 2009 Frisk Riesling "Prickly" isn't prickly at all. (suggested retail $10; available for $9-$13) Instead, it's a simple Riesling with a touch of spritz and lively, slightly sweet apple flavors. Far less dry than either of the bottles here, this would be a good pick for sipping on the back patio with some hors d'oeuvres or for pairing with very spicy food. Very good QPR.

With the 2008 d'Arenberg Riesling The Dry Dam we're back to a wine that is dry and elegant, with similar petroleum and green apple aromas. (suggested retail $16; available from $9-$18)The flavors are dominated by green apple this time, and more petroleum sneaks in to the aftertaste. Nice for the price, and widely available. Very good QPR.

Full Disclosure: I received these bottles as samples.

Pinot Noir--Both Red and Rosé

I'm writing from the Sonoma Coast appellation as I often do this time of year, and it wouldn't be proper if I didn't include a post about the coast's favorite grape: Pinot Noir. Today, I'm highlighting the versatility of the grape by writing about a traditional red Pinot Noir, as well as a rosé made with the grape--and both are under $20. In addition, I'm tipping you off about what just may be the best value in Pinot Noir. Period. It is a little pricier than most wines I review here at just under $30, but drinks like a wine that is easily twice or perhaps even three times the price.

First up, we have the 2007 The Other Guys Pinot Noir Moobuzz ($17.99 in my local independent grocery store; available for $11-$18) Underneath a truly bizarre closure that must be peeled and then tugged, this wine goes through an awkward stage when first opened, when I detected a strong note of acetone in the aromas. It settles down quickly, though, to more appealing aromas of red raspberries, huckleberries, a touch of high-toned pomegranate. These red fruit aromas are evident in the flavors as well, along with additional earthy and spicy notes (especially baking spices like allspice, cloves, and cinnamon). A decent food wine, think of this when you're serving some grilled salmon this summer. Very good QPR.

For another very good QPR Pinot Noir, think pink. The 2009 Fort Ross Pinot Noir Rosé from nearby Fort Ross Vineyard is a delicious wine that expands your sense of the grape into the land of affordable summertime sippers. ($11.99 in my local independent grocery store; available elsewhere for around the same price) The wine is surprisingly dark in color--a rich, deep tea rose--but the aromas and flavors are quite dry and laced with mineral notes. You will find strawberry and herbal flavors and aromas, too. The aftertaste is dry, but retains its mouthwatering juiciness.

And finally, I recommend the excellent QPR 2008 Cep Vineyards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast. ($25.99 in my local independent grocery store; available elsewhere for $23-$31) It used to be something of a hush-hush matter that this was Peay Vineyard's second label, but it's all over the web now. This is perhaps the best value in under $30, made by talented winemakers with some amazing fruit that just wasn't quite up to their high standards. This wine is quite young at present, which translates into "quite spicy" so give it some time in a cool dark place or some time to open up before you drink it now. (It would be a lovely wine for holiday dinners in November and December, by the way). Its raspberry, orange peel, clove, and allspice aromas and flavors are scrumptious and a perfect lead in to the flavors that follow. As wine opened there were mineral, cinnamon, and herbal notes, too. This wine is very complex for the price, and with a classic--and classy--Sonoma Coast profile.

Putting Some Sparkle in the End of the Week

Sparkling wine is one of life's greatest pleasures. Regular readers know how fond I am of wine with bubbles in it, and I'm always on the lookout for new ways to bring some into the house without breaking the bank.

So when Jill at domaineLA mentioned she had a new sparkling Riesling on the shelves, I decided to give it a try.

The 2008 Reichsrat Von Buhl Riesling Brut [Sekt] is a dry wine with piercing apple aromas and hints of petroleum around the edges which is characteristic of Rieslings from this part of the world. Abundant yet fine bead gives the wine a nice texture that is lively without being harsh or raspy. You will find flavors of yeast, bread dough, and apple as you sip and the aftertaste left in your mouth will draw you back for more. A fun sparkler for $25, with lots of class and very good QPR.

I think you could easily open this bottle when you are tempted to splurge on a French champagne, given its classic flavor profile.

Sizing Up Sauvignon Blanc

Summertime. And the living is hot. (image from DKC Service)

Sauvignon Blanc always has the effect of a liquid air conditioner on me. One cool glass and I can feel my core temperature drop and imagine a fresh breeze on my skin.

It would be an understatement to say that there is a lot of Sauvignon Blanc in the market. Let's face it: there's tons of the stuff. It comes from nearly every region of the globe, and finding your way among the options can be a bit daunting. Happily, most bottles are eminently affordable, which makes it possible to experiment without facing bankruptcy.

I must confess that I have a predilection (especially when the temperature rises) for Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand, which are the epitome of refreshment. But don't forget that regions closer to home, like the Napa Valley, make excellent Sauvignon Blanc, too. Check out some of my favorites below.

2009 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc (available for $12-$20) This classic Marlborough Sauvignon blank shouts "citrus!" with abundant grapefruit and lime notes, accented with grassy nuances. In some vintages, this wine can be a bit assertive for me, but the 2009 was delightfully balanced and has very good QPR.

2009 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc Icon (suggested retail $22; available for $14-$25) Another New Zealand bottling, the very good QPR Nobilo has piercing aromas and flavors of lime zest, herbs, and green tea. If Crawford shouts "Citrus!" this wine shouts "Green!" even though its not grassy. The wine is quite complex, and it would be interesting to see how this would pair with Thanksgiving dinner come November, so pick up a few bottles while you're in the store.

2008 Franciscan Oakville Estate Sauvignon Blanc (suggested retail $17; available for $12-20). This lovely domestic example of Sauvignon Blanc is rounder, with nicely-balanced notes of Crenshaw melon, hay, and lemon pith. Fresh but robust enough to stand up to lemon-grilled chicken or a rich fish like Halibut. Not assertive, this wine shows the Napa sunshine in its warmer fruit profile. Very good QPR.

2009 Cupcake Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc (suggested retail $14; available for $7-13). My final recommendation is another affordable New Zealand example with excellent QPR. In this bottle you will find focused Meyer lemon, pink grapefruit, and lime aromas and flavors. Very refreshing, and excellent with fish, salads, and other summer fare. Don't be surprised if this becomes your leading contender for a summer house wine.

Full Disclosure: I received these wines as samples.

Wanted: Good Value in Chardonnay

Good value, high quality, authentic-tasting Chardonnay may be America's most wanted wine. Sometimes, you might think it's as difficult to find as it would be to track down a known fugitive. Why is there so much terrible cheap Chardonnay? Every year there seems to be more of it. But finding a good bottle that is also affordable--that's the trick.

In the summer, the high temperatures and our tendency to serve foods like grilled chicken, corn, crab, and fish make even those of us who are not huge Chardonnay fans head for the store in search of that elusive bottle. When I made some fantastic Tandori-style grilled chicken and slapped it between some grilled naan for a fast weeknight supper, I was definitely on the hunt for a Chardonnay that would be rich but not overly oaky, and luscious without tasting fake and plastic.

Here are some recommendations for Chardonnays that fit the bill--both in terms of cost and taste.

2008 Trefethen Chardonnay Double T (available for $15-$19) This nicely-balanced Napa Valley Chardonnay had authentic, creamy oak and baked apple aromas and flavors. Though it was rich, there was plenty of acidity to keep it from getting to flabby. Very good QPR.

2008 Hayman & Hill Chardonnay Reserve Selection Russian River Valley (SRP $15; available for $14 to $17) Another California Chardonnay, this one from the cooler climate of the Russian River Valley, delivered creme fraiche, apple, and citrus aromas and flavors. The citrus notes kept the wine quite lively, although this was still a full-bodied wine. Layered, complex, and very good QPR.

2008 Concannon Vineyard Chardonnay Conservancy Livermore Valley (SRP $15; available for $9 to $13) From the Livermore Valley, the Concannon Vinyeard bottling struck a perfect balance between richness and freshness with its abundant apple, citrus, pear, and sour cream aromas and flavors. This well-made wine will appeal to those who like their Chardonnays rich, without turning off those who prefer a wine with a lighter flavor profile. Very good QPR--and excellent QPR if you can pick it up for around $10.

Full Disclosure: I received these wines as samples.

A Summery Sparkler from Ca'Momi

No matter how much wine you drink, nobody knows everything.

Recently, I've been sampling some wine from Ca'Momi Wines. Located in the pricey Napa Valley, this is a winery that makes some extraordinarily affordable and delicious wines. Put it on your list of small producers to watch for and ask your favorite retailer to get some of their wine in stock.

A wine that I was particularly taken with was the NV Ca' Momi Ca' Secco ($16.99) This was summer in a bottle, with aromas and flavors of Meyer lemon and tangerine. The overall impression was round and fruity, but it was also quite refreshing with a medium-sized bubble to keep everything lively and light. The aftertaste was dry, as you might expect from a blended sparkler made with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Muscat. Very good QPR.

Because of all the citrusy elements in the wine, it would be an ideal choice for summer brunch, or for a lazy afternoon watching the sun go down.

Full Disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

Because Traditional Can Be a Good Thing

As a historian I may be prejudiced, but in my opinion there's nothing wrong with traditional--especially not when it comes to wine. I like big New World fruit bombs, too, but find myself gravitating more and more these days to wines that may emphasize secondary flavor elements like minerals, herbs--even dirt!--over juicy fruit.

The Languedoc region seems to be full of such bottlings, and one of the treasures I've come across recently is the 2006 Mas Bruguiere Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St. Loup La Grenadière (suggested retail $16; I can't find availability online) The wine is decidedly traditional in style, putting its spicy, peppery foot forward before the fruit. Once the fruit shows up, it has dry plum and berry fruit flavors and some spiciness, and a lick of pepper in the aftertaste. This very enjoyable wine delivered very good QPR.

If the flavor profile of this wine intrigues you (and makes you think of barbecued ribs...) check out the current offerings of Languedoc wines in your local wine store or online at vendors like K&L. (That link delivers you to a Pic St. Loup wine that is available, or you can enter "Pic Saint Loup" in the search box for more options.)

This region delivers exceptional value, and it's worth getting to know it.

Full Disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

Has Your Spring Sprung? Time for Rosé

My family on the east coast tells me its in the upper 80s. Here in LA, it's in the low 80s. Spring, apparently, sprung.

Seasonably speaking, it's time to find the grill and get some rosé in the house. At this point in the year, chances are you can still find a lot of last year's rosé on the shelf. As long as the wine store has been storing them properly, that's not a problem. So head over to your favorite wine retailer and pick up a pink wine to enjoy this weekend.

One that you might be able to put your hands on is the 2008 Château Viranel Saint-Chinian (suggested retail $13; available for $10) Made from Syrah, Grenache, and Cinsault, this wine epitomizes the sunny, Mediterranean feeling that I want from my rosés. It is true salmon in color, and has aromas of rose petals and raspberries. These elements are echoed in the palate, and there are nice stone notes in the aftertaste. Dry, refreshing, and perfect for charcuterie, salads, grilled sausages or just plain sipping on the patio, this wine has very good QPR--and excellent QPR if you can pick it up on sale for around $10.

Full Disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

A Great Gewurz for Spring

Now that it's spring, my mind has turned to cleaning, lightening up, and enjoying the outdoors. In the wine department, that means my mind has turned to Gewürztraminer, a grape that always reminds me of this time of year.

Finding a good, affordable of the grape can be challenging. Some are too sweet, and some have an almost plastic quality with the aroma of cheap perfume. So if you have had Gewürztraminer in the past and not enjoyed it, make it your mission this spring to find one that suits your palate and your pocketbook.

One that I like is the 2009 Dancing Coyote Gewürztraminer (suggested retail, $10.99). It's a very good QPR domestic example with springlike aromas of apple, litchi, and honeysuckle. All of these notes can be found in the flavors, along with a nice acidity that adds to the juiciness of the wine and balances out the natural sweet impression that the grape gives.

This wine will be terrific with grilled sausages, salads, and spicy Asian cuisine.

Full Disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

Goldilocks on Pinot Grigio

Remember the children's story of Goldilocks and the three bears? She wanders into a cabin and finds three bowls of porridge. The first is too hot. The next is too cold. The third, however, is "just right."

I often feel like Goldilocks when tasting Pinot Grigio. Some of them are too bitter. Some of them are too sweet. Some, too tart. Some of them are too fruity. Why are wines made with this grape so often out of balance?

If you're looking for a nicely balanced Pinot Grigio, look for a bottle of the 2007 Swanson Pinot Grigio from the Napa Valley. ($13-$22) Though it costs a bit more, it is very good QPR and worth every penny. Expect bitter lemon aromas, accented by a bit of blood orange. The flavors are nicely creamy yet still citrusy, like lemon curd. This wine is poised between fruit, acidity, lushness, and bitterness.

As Goldilocks would say: "Just right."

Full Disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

Food and Wine: the Search for Versatility

Pairing food and wine can be a perplexing, confusing business. People can be nutty on the subject and I have to admit I can be a bit obsessive about finding the perfect food to go with Pinot Gris and the ideal wine for spaghetti and meatballs.

In a world of shrinking bank accounts and free time, I've started prizing versatility in wine. When I go to the store, I'm increasingly drawn to wine that goes with everything. What that often means is that my shopping bag contains a red blend and a bottle of Gewurztraminer. Here's why.

Why Red Blends? Here in the US we tend to gravitate towards single-variety bottlings--Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah. The rest of the world does things differently. Chianti is made from a blend of red grapes that includes at least 80% Sangiovese. In the Rhone, red wines can include Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and other red grapes. Like Bordeaux reds? These bottles typically contain Merlot, Cabernet, and juice from Petit Verdot or Cabernet Franc. In my mouth, blending grapes takes some of the hard varietal edges from a wine. Put Merlot with Cabernet and some of its green pepperiness goes away, for instance. This makes red blends great food wines, capable of adapting themselves to a variety of cuisines--from burgers to roast chicken to beef curry. In the US, many red blends feature Zinfandel and Syrah. This makes them smooth to drink, and a bit higher in alcohol levels than those from Europe so read your labels! One nice red to try is the 2007 Adastra Ed's Red ($15). This big, yummy, smooth red blend is comprised of 43% Syrah, 39% Zinfandel, 13% Petite Sirah, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Made with organic grapes (see note below), it has abundant notes of dark chocolate, plum, and black cherry in the aromas and flavors. This wine is not only very good QPR--it goes own VERY easily too, so remember it's 15% ABV. Pair it with anything from soups, stews, burgers, spaghetti, pizza, roast chicken with rosemary, pork tenderloin, beef curry--let your imagination fly. NOTE: the nice folks at Adastra tell me that because this is a blend, the mix is not made exclusively from grapes grown in Adastra's organic vineyards.

Why Gewurztraminer? When I started thinking about this post, I was planning on extolling the virtues of Sauvignon Blanc. That's a versatile grape, too. But Gewurz edges it out, in my opinion. That's because it pairs beautifully with Asian cuisine--Thai, Chinese, Japanese, even Indian. It also is perfect with pork, sausage, and chicken. So whether you've got some delicate sushi or a hearty Alsatian pork stew, a flavorful Thai curry or a plateful of sausages and mashed potatoes, Gewurztraminer turns out to be a surprisingly good option. Gewurztraminers can be made in a dry or slightly off-dry style, so look at the description on the label. The spicier your food, the better it can handle a bit of sweetness in the wine. The most versatile Gewurztraminers, I find, are the dry ones. One I enjoyed recently was the 2007 Joseph Swan Vineyards Gewurztraminer from the Russian River Valley's Saralee's Vineyards ($20, domaineLA). I loved this domestic Gewurztraminer with its classic, restraind flavor profile. Elegant apple and white nectarine aromas lead into flavors that are almost steely in their intensity and dominated by apple and stone. The aftertaste tends towards nectarine, but this wine is by no means sweet. It was lovely with a tamarind chicken curry, with some sausage, and with a pork stew. Excellent QPR.

Do you have other suggestions for wines that go with most everything? If so, leave them in the comments.

Full disclosure: I received the red blend as a sample.

Mighty Good Malbecs

I was reminded last week of why I love Malbec. It's got the richness of Syrah, with some of the tannic structure of Cabernet. While the former can sometimes be too jammy, and the latter too austere, Malbecs are just right for pairing with a wide variety of foods. And with many of us turning off our grills and heating up our ovens, it's worth pointing out that Malbecs are great with autumn stews and soups.

Here are some of the best Malbecs I've tasted recently--and they are in the market at a variety of price points under $20.

2007 Trumpeter Malbec. Made by Argentina's Familia Rutini, this is a simple, pleasant, well-priced Malbec. For under $10 you get aromas aromas of roasted coffee and plum. The flavors are dominated by black cherry, coffee, and toast, and there is a juicy, tannic finish. Expect this wine to be slightly drying in the mouth when sipped on its own, but it shines with food. Very good QPR. (available in most markets for under $10)

2008 Don Miguel Gascón Malbec. Bodegas Escorihuela Gascón has a new label for their popular wine, but there's still the same very good QPR wine inside. You'll start off smelling blackberry and blueberry, along with a strong hit of coffee. The berry fruit continues through the flavors, and there is a distinctive mocha aftertaste that makes it well worth the under $15 price tag. (available in most markets for around $14)

2007 Alamos Selección Malbec. A terrific Malbec from Bodega Catena Zapata with aromas of blackberry, violets, and spice. The flavors are nicely layered, and include black cherry, fennel, and more violets along with a pleasant leathery note. Satiny tannins and refreshing acidity round out this wine. Excellent QPR for this unusually complex bottling under $20. (available for $12-$20 in most markets)

If you think Malbecs only pair well with grilled red meat, think again. We had our Malbecs with some Asian-style drumsticks. The sticky glaze made with hoisin and chili sauces was delicious, and a perfectly robust counterpoint to the wines. The 5-Spice in the recipe accented the leathery and floral notes in these wines, and the plum and berry fruit profiles provided a juicy counterpoint to the assertive flavorings.

Full Disclosure: I received these wines as samples.

A Bargain in Bubbles: Zonin Prosecco

I'm sliding in a weekend post--a recommendation for bargain bubbles in case you have something to celebrate. When a wine is this enjoyable and this affordable, I figure finding a reason to celebrate is pretty easy. Did you finish your laundry? Clean out the TiVO? Wash dishes?

If so, treat yourself to a bottle of the NV Zonin Prosecco (suggested retail around $14, but available for $8-$18 in the market). This is a new bottling for Zonin, which already makes a popular "Special Cuvee" and "Brut" Prosecco. I really enjoyed this wine in part because it was a hair off-dry, which made for a wine that tasted soft with aromas and flavors of honeyed apple. There are some zngy tangerine peel notes in the aftertaste, which only added to the attractions for me.

This was a nicely-priced, thoroughly enjoyable, not-too-serious sipper of a Prosecco that you can enjoy before dinner or with dessert without guilt or stress. Very good QPR all around.

Full Disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

A Ligurian Red That Dresses Up--or Down

I'm finishing up with my whirlwind tour of Ligurian wine as part of my ongoing trawl through Italy's wine regions and grape varieties.

Even though I spent more than $20 on this wine ($25.99, to be precise), I'm still pretty pleased with the very good QPR on the 2005 Azienda Agricola Durin Ormeasco di Pornassio. ($25.99, Wine Expo--and I can't seem to find it anywhere else!) This is a classy, distinctive wine that offers up lots of character for the price.

Ormeasco is Ligurian for Dolcetto, I discovered, and one of the things I like best about the grape is that it's a wine that is just as good with pizza and spaghetti with meatballs as it is with grilled beef, roasts, and more elegant fare. It's a dress-me-up, dress-me-down kind of wine. This was a really lovely example of what Dolcetto/Ormeasco is all about. First, Dolcetto is a treat for the nose. There were aromas of licorice (which I love and it can be hard to find in a wine), cherry, fresh green fennel, and blackberry that you had to coax out of the glass at first, but which were worth the wait. I found echoes of all these notes in the flavors, with additional grilled herb nuances emerging in the aftertaste. There are cheaper Dolcettos out there, but they are far simpler than this wine turned out to be.

This wine would be fantastic with dishes that involve rosemary or fennel (to pick up the herbal notes), with meats (chicken, duck, and beef), and with anything that is Mediterranean in its culinary influences.