Join the Rhone Rangers: Sunday August 8 in LA

If you're around and about the city of Los Angeles on Sunday, August 8, you have a chance to saddle up and ride with the Rhone Rangers at their Southern California tasting event. This is always one of my favorite tastings because it provides an opportunity to meet some of the friendliest, most talented folks in the wine biz and taste a wide range of wines made with Rhone varieties.

Over 35 wineries will be there, including some familiar to readers of GWU$20 like Anglim, Cline, Four Vines, Tablas Creek, and Unti. These producers deliver exceptional value for the money, and if you attend you'll walk out with a real knowledge of what appeals to you for your next trip to the wine store. Artisan cheeses and tapas plates will be available for purchase from 2-5.

You can find the Rhone Rangers at Pier 59 Studios West in Santa Monica. Here are the details, and links to buy tickets:


Sunday, August 8, Rhone Rangers LA Tasting for Consumers
Time: 2-5 PM, General Admission. Tickets, $35.
12-5 PM VIP Admission, Tickets, $75.

Wine: Participating wineries include: 10 Knots Cellars, Anglim, Calcareous, Caliza, Cass, Chateau Ste Michelle, Clavo Cellars, Cliff Creek Cellars, Cline, Columbia Crest, Curtis, Derby Wine Estates, Ecluse, Edward Sellers, Epiphany, Fess Parker, Four Vines, Halter Ranch, J. Lohr, Jada, Justin, Katin, L'Aventure, Michael-David, Ortman Family Vineyards, Qupe, Stark, Tablas Creek, Tercero, Terry Hoage, Treana, Unti, Vina Robles, Vines on the Marycrest, Zaca Mesa.

Food: Complimentary appetizers and tapas plates will be served by Schaffer's Genuine Catering, Venice, CA, from 12 noon - 2 PM. From 2 PM - 5 PM, tapas plates will be available for purchase.

Place: Pier 59 Studios West, 2415 Michigan Ave, Santa Monica, CA

Hospice du Rhone--Some Images

Last weekend, I had the pleasure of attending the 2009 Hospice du Rhone event in Paso Robles.

It was a wonderful experience--full of great wine, great conversation, and great food. I'll have a full story on Friday on Serious Eats, but until then I thought you might enjoy seeing some images from the event. Stay tuned for more both here and on Serious Grape, my weekly column on Serious Eats.

Hospice du Rhone Coverage--Friday and Saturday

Tomorrow (Friday) and Saturday I'll be at the Hospice du Rhone event in Paso Robles. (photo courtesy of Mel Hill/Hospice du Rhone)

If you'd like to follow periodic updates from the event, head on over to my feed on Twitter, where I'll be posting news throughout the day. If you're already on twitter, you can follow me @drdebs (how's that for creative?) Don't worry--there won't be a string of notes all day. I can't multitask that well! Instead, I'll take a break now and again to give you some of the highlights.

Expect more fulsome coverage in the days and weeks to come. Meanwhile I hope you'll all enjoy these sips of Hospice du Rhone.

Friday on Serious Grape: Visiting with the Family Winemakers

Sorry for the delay in posting, but on Friday my weekly column on Serious Eats focused on the recent Family Winemakers of California tasting I attended.

This is a tasting I look forward to each year. If you don't know what a Family Winemaker is, head over to Serious Grape and check out what the association stands for, and what it promotes. You'll also get a lead on a great $20 bottle of wine made by a young winemaker you'll be glad to know about.

Today on Serious Grape: The Mystery of Tasting Notes

If you've ever read a tasting note of mine--or any other wine writer--and thought "huh?" then you should head over to this week's Serious Grape post over on Serious Eats. (photo by MCHart)

In this week's entry I explain why adopting a varied diet, including advanced fruits like gooseberries and currants, is actually the best way to get more tasting pleasure out of your wine. It's all about the analogies you can make between the flavors in the glass and other flavors that exist outside it.

Check it out and let me know what you think. Do you agree that people who are foodies tend to be more sophisticated wine tasters as well?

On the Road: Tablas Creek Vineyard

Late in October, I had the chance to visit Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles, where some of the best wine in California is made. I went with Jill from domaine547 and Jason Haas, who writes the award-winning Tablas Creek Blog, was our tour guide. After we walked in the vineyards, Jason took us through the winery's new releases. I've got some pictures above, and some tasting notes below. I hope that they encourage you to look for Tablas Creek wines in a store near you and to visit the winery if you are ever in the Paso Robles area. It's a special place.

Please note: most Tablas Creek wines cost a bit more than the wine normally featured on this blog, and retail for between $20 and $45 for the dry wines. The dessert wines (listed first) cost even more (in the $65-$85 for a 375 ml bottle). However, these are distinctive, memorable wines and they are worth the splurge if you can afford it. All the wines described here I would classify as very good or excellent QPR, even though they cost more than $20.

2005 Tablas Creek Vin de Paille "SacreRouge" (find this wine)
100% Mourvedre dessert wine. Cocoa nibs and dark chocolate aromas knock you over, and they’re followed up with flavors of chocolate extract with a cherry chaser. Dusty, cocoa powder finish.

2005 Tablas Creek Vin de Paille (find this wine)
Nectar, honey, and white peach aromas are followed up by applesauce, cream, honey, and peach jam flavors. Wonderful acidity keeps this white dessert wine from being cloying.

2006 Tablas Creek Tannat (find this wine)
Abundant blueberry aromas and flavors are fresh and arresting. As the wine opens up, darker blackberry fruit emerges. Great tannic grip in the midpalate and finish is in no way overwhelming though it does turn a bit drying. If you’ve never had Tannat, this is a great introduction to the grape.

2006 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel Rouge (find this wine)
Another excellent, excellent vintage. Mint, blackberry, and plum aromas. Crisp, clear fruit on the midpalate with lots of cherries and chocolate. Much lighter on its feet than the 05, this should age spectacularly.

2005 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel Rouge (find this wine)
Milk chocolate and flower aromas are paired with meaty, chocolate, and black cherry flavors. Lots of roasted herb, grilled meat, and plum emerge as the wine opens up in both the aromas and flavors. Acidity and emerging minerality add complexity to the fruit.

2006 Tablas Creek Counoise (find this wine)
I loved this silky yet earthy wine with red fruit aromas and high-toned raspberry and blackberry fruit flavors. The earthy undertow keeps it interesting.

2005 Tablas Creek Syrah (find this wine)
This wine was all about the plums for me. Dark plum color. Aromas of plum blossom, flowers, plum, and roasted herbs. Rich plum and stone flavors and a creamy midpalate with lots of body.

2006 Tablas Creek Mourvedre (find this wine)
A classic, beautiful example of the grape. There was a beautiful perfume of flowers and red fruit, which turns decidedly in the direction of violets as the wine opens up. Rich red fruits in the flavors. Nice, gritty tannins and great acidity. The aromas pick up smoky notes with air.

2006 Tablas Creek Côtes de Tablas (find this wine)
Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Counoise. Apples, cherry, and strawberry aromas and palate. Candy apple notes emerge as the wine opens, as well as sweet apple-spice aromas. Lovely streak of limestone adds complexity.

2007 Tablas Creek Rosé (find this wine)
Mineral and raspberry aromas emerge from this dark wine, as do frais de bois and raspberry flavors. Very nice, rich mouthfeel and a concentration of flavors in the midpalate with a chalky, stony finish.

2007 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc (find this wine)
Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul. Rose petal aromas and flavors with golden delicious apple at the core. Great concentration to the flavors, and though this is still very young and a tad acidic, I anticipate it will flesh out beautifully.

2006 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc (find this wine)
Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Picpoul. Beautiful pale gold color is indicative of the honeyed apple and honeydew aromas and flavors that have beeswax touches and mineral notes. Perfectly balanced between fruit and acidity.

2006 Tablas Creek Grenache Blanc (find this wine)
Honeysuckle, white nectarine and stone aromas. There is apple and more stone in the midpalate, with a deceptively heavy mouthfeel. Great acidity in the finish.

2007 Tablas Creek Cotes de Tablas Blanc (find this wine)
Melon, white flowers, and mandarin peel aromas and flavors. Nice body.

2007 Tablas Creek Vermentino (find this wine)
Shy aromas of stone, lemon, and apple. Juicy pear and apple flavors, with kaffir lime and white ginger suggest this would be great with shellfish and fish.

Stumped Making Wine Tasting Notes?

This should sort you out.

With options like "stamina to spare" in the "Finish" category and "height-weight proportionate" in the "Body" category, this is one tasting note sheet that's suitable for wine snobs and those that love them. Besides it has a "Label" category (yes, you can select "unfathomably ugly") and a coaster is included. Click on image to enlarge.

From your friends at Knock Knock, for just $6.99. Buy them by the case now, because come December they will be completely sold out. While you're there, check out the other fine products for back to work/school, like the Paper Voodoo pad, the Daily Mood Tracker mousepad, and the favorite in my office, the Dial-an-Excuse wheel.

Thanks, Dad, for the heads up!

Headlines from Pinot Days 2008

I attended the 2008 Pinot Days in San Francisco again this year, and what follows are some impressions and musings on what I heard, saw, and tasted. Just so you know, I make no attempt at any trade tasting to drink everything in the room. Instead, I have a plan of who I want to talk to and what I want to taste. So there may be other people who attended and drank different wines that will disagree with me--but that's part of what makes wine fun, yes?


Reply Heard Most Often After Saying "Hi": "We don't have anything under $20."

Only in California moment: The massage station, where they were giving out back rubs.

Wildest Thing Seen at Pinot Days: The WinePod, a home wine-making machine pictured to the left with full video-support beamed in over the internet. It's the R2D2 for wine lovers. If you and your loved ones have $4400 to spare, you can have one of your very own.

Naughtiest T-shirt: "I want to put my Pinot in your mouth." (name withheld to protect the not-so-innocent)

The 2006 Vintage: it's all about the spice, based on the wines that I tasted. Clove, cinnamon, nutmeg--a spice box full of rich flavors greeted you in most glasses of wine. Accompanied by a firm core of acidity, I think this is a vintage that will (on the whole) age well, and in time some of those intensely spicy notes may soften. If you like Pinots that are approachable and easy to drink when young, with buckets of raspberry and earthy flavors, this may not be the vintage for you--I'd buy carefully. If spice is your thing, the standouts for me were the 2006 Londer Estate Grown Anderson Valley ($16-$40) with it distinctive flavors of clove, allspice, mushroom, and cherry; the 2006 Copain Kiser En Bas which ($56) was a bit tight now but had terrific spiciness and a slightly caramel aftertaste that worked very nicely with the black cherry fruit; and the 2006 Alma Rosa La Encantada ($49) with lots of cherry and baking spices and a clove finish, along with touches of rose petal.

What was missing: perfume. A lot of the wines were closed down and tight, and when I finally swirled a glass and got that floral and fruity smell I associate with the wine, accompanied by mushroom, forest, and earth aromas, it hit me right between the eyes. Melville's Pinot Noirs were a treat in the aroma and flavor departments, as were the wines from Londer Vineyards, Row Eleven, Sarah's Vineyards from the Santa Cruz Mountains, Anglim, and Eric Kent. The most stunning aromas came from the 2005 Fort Ross Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast ($35-$50), which had gardens of flowers, herbs, and cherry blossoms accompanied by touches of cedar and a core of raspberry and cherry fruit--and that was before you sipped any of it.

Favorite producers who continued to please: My favorite Pinot Noirs these days continue to be made by Fort Ross and Eric Kent. Fort Ross just released its 2005 Pinot Noirs, while Eric Kent brought along bottles of the 2006s and barrel samples of the 2007s.

Fort Ross's 2005 Sonoma Coast bottling had arresting aromas and velvety flavors of blackberry, raspberry, and earth. This is one elegant, refined, and captivating wine. The 2005 Reserve is still wound tight, and has more spicy notes with the berry fruit. This one will take some time to really settle down and show its full potential.

The 2006 Eric Kent Pinot Noirs I tasted last year in barrel samples lived up to their early promise. The 2006 Eric Kent Stiling Vineyard ($37-$53) had beautiful cherry blossom aromas, bright cherry fruit, and a lavender and herbal lift just when you least expect it. The 2006 Eric Kent Windsor Oaks ($37-$47) had soft, seductive red fruits and a black tea note in the aftertaste that made the wine deepen and darken. And there's more great wine to come with the 2007 vintage, with the Windsor Oaks barrel sample showing bright strawberry and cherry fruit with a caramelized edge to them. The 2007 Stiling Vineyard barrel sample was just exploding with raspberry fruit, and had more acidity than the Windsor Oaks and notes of earth and bitter chocolate. Eric Kent has a new Pinot Noir for 2007 from the Cleary Vineyards, which will please traditionalists with the earth, mushroom, and Asian spice flavors and cherry fruit and a bit of licorice for good measure. The 2007s will be spending another 6 months in the barrel before bottling, so it will be fascinating to track how they continue to evolve.

Impressive newer producers: I found three producers at this years tasting that I will be buying from in the upcoming months. They all have relatively small production, so if you are interested in their wine, I'd contact them directly.

The first is Scenic Root Winegrowers, headed up by Susan and Jonathan Pey who have made a variety of wines from different appellations under seemingly distinct labels since 1999. Their 2006 Pinot Noirs were quite impressive. The 2006 Pey-Marin "Trois Filles" ($42) was made with organic grapes and had aromas and flavors of chocolate, raspberry, and white flowers. The wine had a beautiful satiny mouthfeel, and was very elegant. The 2006 Pey-Lucia "Frisquet" ($39) had sweet raspberry top-notes in the aromas and flavors, which got darker and richer as you held it in your mouth. This wine had great acidity, too, and I suspect it will only get better with time.

Lutea Wine Cellars, headed up by winemaker Suzanne Hagins, are made with organic and/or biodynamic fruit and a restrained use of oak. Her wines are fascinating and well-made Pinots that can be enjoyed by all your senses--including your brain. I loved the stone and mineral notes and the bright raspberry fruit in the 2006 Pinot Noir Carneros ($35), and the satiny blackberry fruit in the 2006 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley ($35) had a charming lift of lavender and mint. How good are they? I've already signed up for their wine club.

Paul Mathew Vineyards makes wines under the leadership of Mat Gustafson. I was leaving the event when I met up with some of the folks from Vinquire, and they said their new favorites at the tasting were Lutea (see above) and Paul Mathew. Thanks for the tip! You are going to be hearing a lot about their wines in the upcoming months, I am sure, because they are well-priced and very flavorful. The 2006 Paul Mathew Sonoma Coast ($30) had high-toned cherry and raspberry fruit aromas and flavors. The 2006 Paul Mathew Russian River Valley ($32) had shyer strawberry aromas and flavors, and nice earthy and mushroom notes. The 2006 Paul Mathew Ruxton Vineyard ($35) had interesting spicebox and raspberry aromas and a light and lean flavor profile of cherry fruit with a spicy aftertaste. The 2006 TnT Vineyard ($35) had explosive aromas and flavors of cherries, spice, clove, and herbs.

Good Pinot under $20: there aren't that many of them, but I'd look for the 2006 Londer Anderson Valley described above, or the 2006 Row Eleven Vinas 3 ($18-$20) which has a sweet, juicy cherry aroma and a bit of earthiness added to the cherries in the flavors. This is not as complicated as many of the higher-priced wines, but it is a terrific, well-made, everyday Pinot Noir.

I'll be returning in more detail to these (and more) Pinot Noirs in upcoming posts, but I wanted to get out the highlights straight away so you can start placing orders, signing up for mailing lists, and doing what you need to do to keep yourself in good red wine for next year.

Wine Book Club #3: To Cork Or Not to Cork?

4 billion dollars. That's what's at stake financially in the wine biz when it comes to getting consumers to make up their minds about what stopper they want in their wine bottle. But as George Taber explains in his new book, To Cork or Not to Cork? Tradition, Romance, Science, and the Battle for the WineBottle ($26, Scribner) there's more than just money at stake, too. If you are a dedicated oenophile and enjoy having esoteric wine subjects presented in a humorous, accessible way by a gifted writer you will like this book. My hat is off to anyone who can convey detailed, often scientific information with flair and enthusiasm. It's not a book for the casual wine drinker, but if you are a wine enthusiast this is a book you will want on your shelf.

Taber's book was selected by Lenn Thompson of Lenndevours for the 3rd edition of the Wine Book Club, the every-other-month meeting of bloggers and readers to discuss a recent or classic book on wine. What I learned from Lenn's pick is just how serious the business of closures is in the wine industry.

In the story so far, big industry money and scientific research supporting the use of alternatives to natural cork have been on a collision course with the tastes and prejudices of the average wine consumer, who is resistant to change. The pop of the cork, the way it rolls around on the table, the little design--even sniffing the darn thing--all play a part in a person's sensory enjoyment of wine. Complicating the matter further is tradition, the increasing pursuit of all things natural, and the need to impress friends and relatives by not serving wine in a bottle that only requires a flick of the wrist to open it.

Taber does more than you might expect is humanly possible to make the tension between the needs of the wine, the winemakers, and the consumers interesting. He delves into the annals of history, and tells you about the first man who saw the cells in cork (Robert Hooke). Taber recounts the story of Randall Grahm's cork "funeral." Periodic "Message in a Bottle" breaks between chapters describe particular incidents with wine closures that will bring a smile of recognition to most wine lovers' faces. And there is even a villain in the piece, in the form of TCA (trichloroanisole) which occurs naturally in cork and can impart a musty, wet-cardboard smell and taste to wine for those who are sensitive to it.

No one wants to drink wine that smells like their basement after a flood--so why do so many people resist alternative closures? If you're like me, Stelvin (screwtop) closures are much less of an issue than ersatz plastic corks, which no one seems to like. There are alternatives to natural cork, Stelvin closures, and synthetic corks: elegant and expensive glass stoppers, which Taber explains have a long history; and the stoppers made with cork granules and a binding agent, which are increasingly popular. With both the glass and the amalgamated closures you get the characteristic "pop" of pleasure in opening a wine bottle, but not the threat of TCA contamination.

In pursuit of my own semi-scientific findings on the subject of TCA taint, the good folks at Oenéo Closures sent me a little test kit of untreated cork granules, steam-cleaned cork granules, and cork granules that have been decontaminated with a proprietary process called DIAM that is a little like what happens to coffee beans when they are decaffeinated. I followed their instructions, added distilled water to the cork granules, and let them sit for 18 hours. I then decanted the liquid into wine glasses. I could definitely smell the classic wet, moldy cardboard aroma in the untreated mixture, and smelled nothing but water in the other two samples. Definitely a good sign, and it would give me some confidence to know that an expensive bottle of wine had one of these corks in it before I splurged and bought it. The corks made from the super-cleaned granules are in a lot of US wine bottles these days, including Cosentino, Copain, Robert Pecota, and Hannah Nicole. Even French makers are using them for their still and sparkling wine, including Louis Jadot, Hugel, Billecart-Salmon and Taittinger.

After reading Taber's book I'm convinced that the tide is turning--and for good reason--against a mindless opposition to screwtops and other alternatives to plain old cork. But I'm not sure that I agree with Taber that a "packaging revolution is on the horizon and rapidly rushing forward." His book provided ample evidence of just how ingrained our wine habits are, and how little we as consumers like to have someone rock our wine world.

In July and August we'll be reading a title selected by Farley from Behind the Vines, so stay tuned next week for her announcement of the title and why she chose the book. We'll be posting reviews the last Tuesday in August, so you should have lots of time to join in and read along if you are interested. As always, you can stay up to date with what's we're reading in the Wine Book Club by checking out our pages on Shelfari or Facebook. Thanks again to Lenn for hosting WBC #3.

Wine & Spirits Hot Picks Next Week

Just a reminder that next Thursday (May 22) Wine & Spirits magazine is coming to town with their Hot Picks event, to be held from 7-10 pm in the chic MODAA gallery in Culver City. You can click on the logo to the left for more information and to purchase a ticket online.

For $75 you get a year's subscription to the magazine as well as the chance to taste some great wines selected for their excellent taste and great value--which is bound to appeal to a GWU$20 reader. These wine picks are highlighted in the June issue of Wine & Spirits, which features the 100 top values in wine and goes on sale the same day.

You will also get a chance to talk with some of LA's up-and-coming wine professionals, and mingle with local retailers (like Jill from domaine547, one of the event's partners). I'll be there, too, so if you recognize me come up and introduce yourself.

$5 of every ticket purchased goes to benefit Surfrider's efforts at water conservation and preservation.

Great wine, a worthy cause, and the inside track on some wallet-friendly options for your next shopping trip--all for $75. See you at the MODAA Gallery next Thursday night.

Drink Wine, Save Water

Wine & Spirits magazine is coming to LA this May to unveil some of their critics' "Hot Picks" for 2008--the wines that stand out from a year's worth of wine tasting because of their accessibility, affordability, and delicious taste--and to celebrate some of the city's youngest sommeliers and wine experts.

For $75 you will be able to meet and mingle with some savvy people under 35 who are already making a name for themselves in LA's wine scene, and taste some of the wines that will be featured in the June 2008 issue of the magazine just as it's hitting the news-stands. The event will be held in the inspiring MODAA Gallery in Culver City, and since space is limited I'd advise you to book ahead.

Save the date (May 22, 2008, 7-10 pm), reserve tickets for you and your friends, and join me at this great event. A portion of the ticket sales will benefit the Surfrider Foundation, so you can drink delicious wine while supporting water conservation issues (something that should be on everyone's mind in Southern California).

Not in LA? The Wine & Spirits Drink Wine, Save Water event moves to Seattle's Paramount Theatre on June 24, 2008, so maybe you can catch them there.

I will be at the MODAA Gallery on May 22, and I hope to see many LA readers of GWU$20 at this event featuring great wine values, and benefiting a worthy cause.

Open That Bottle Night Is Coming Up

Farley, over at Behind the Vines, reminded me that Open That Bottle Night is scheduled for February 23--just nine nights from today.

What is Open That Bottle Night, you ask? It's the brilliant annual event started eight years ago by Wall Street Journal wine critics Dorothy Gaiter and Jon Brecher. They ask people to open a bottle that they've "been waiting to open forever." Why wait? Do it now. Join up with friends, or just someone special, and open up a bottle that you've been waiting for a special occasion to try. That special occasion is NOW! (picture of the Bonanza Wine Tasting Group's 2007 OTBN event, from NorthTahoeLiving.com)

You may find that there are Open That Bottle Night events near you (like this one in Philadelphia), or you may want to start your own with a tasting group that you already enjoy spending time with.

You also have a few more days (until February 20) to enter Farley's contest to win two bottles of Rosenblum (shipping restrictions apply) in exchange for telling her what you plan to open. Details on the contest can be found here.

Tasting Burgundy

I had the opportunity to attend a wine tasting devoted to celebrating the wine heritage of Burgundy recently that was sponsored by the Burgundy Wine Council. I wanted to share some of my observations from that tasting with you. Getting over my Burgundy anxiety was one of my 2007 wine projects, and I can't say that I had a lot of success. I still felt that I was paying too much for wines that were pleasant, but not memorable. And I was often stumped in the wine store by selections of wine that I simply could not afford. So I was particularly interested in this tasting because the organizers were emphasizing "Burgundy Best Buys" that cost less than $35. I wanted a chance to taste these wines, and to compare them with more costly wines from the same region.

Here are my thoughts, after tasting more than 60 different wines from this one spectacular wine region.

1. Yes, there are great buys in Burgundy. Let's get that out there right away. Sparkling wines, white wines, red wines--there were excellent choices for under $35 in each of these brackets. I loved the fresh biscuity aromas and flavors of the 2004 Dufouleur Pere et Fils Cremant de Bourgogne ($NA), and the unexpected anise note in the finish. Among the white still wines, I adored the aromas of golden apple in the 2006 Domaine Sylvain Langoureau Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Le Sentier du Clou ($NA). Though the 2005 Champy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Le Charmois ($NA) had more muted aromas, the soft and balanced flavors of apple and citrus opened up nicely and I was impressed by how food-friendly the wine would be. Among the reds, the 2005 Chateau de Chamirey Mercurey ($35) was a stunner with aromas and flavors of earth, spice, and cherry. There was a pleasant lift at the core of this wine's flavors, and a nice silkiness, too.

2. These affordable Burgundy wines are not easy to find. Burgundian vineyards are tiny, tiny, tiny in most cases. The small number of cases each producer is able to produce means that it's going to be difficult to find these wines in most markets. The one bargain I could find online, for instance, is available only through NY merchants.

3. There are a lot of great wines that aren't being imported into the US. I tasted some great, great wine that is simply not available in US markets--and not because the winemakers don't want us to drink it! Champy, who makes the great white I mentioned in #1 is looking for an importer. I tasted nine of their wines, and with one exception each one was a wine I would recommend. They were complex, balanced--and not available in the US. Other producers whose wine I loved across the board, but who don't have importers at present, include Maison Lou Dumont and Domaine de Mauperthuis.

4. Gevrey-Chambertin. Because I was able to drink wines from many different appellations, I was able for the very first time to realize that I love wines from Gevrey-Chambertin, with Pommard coming in as a very close second. The 2005 Maison Albert Bichot Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corvees was just lovely, with its pure cherry aromas and flavors and spicy notes. And the 2005 Maison Albert Bichot Pommard Clos des Ursulines Domaine du Pavillon ($43) was just as nice, with deep aromas of black cherry and plum.

5. Entry level Burgundies can be just terrific. If you think there's no point in drinking entry-level Burgundies, think again. These will not have a specific vineyard or appellation associated with them, and often carry a varietal designation. But I was really impressed by the freshness and appeal of the "Bourgogne Chardonnay" and "Bourgogne Pinot Noir" that I had. the 2005 Maison Albert Bichot Bourgogne Chardonnay Vielles Vignes was clean and fresh, with creamy apple aromas and flavors. The 2006 Champy Bourgogne Pinot Noir had lovely aromas of cherry and cherry blossom, a gorgeous true ruby color, and a slightly drying finish. And the 2005 Maison Lou Dumont Bourgogne Red (which retails in Europe for around 10 euros), had a terrific structure and a cherry nose with a pleasantly earthy underpinning.

In just one tasting I was able to push my knowledge of Burgundy well past what I knew going in to the event. And it gave me hope that with some more experience, I might be able to return to my Burgundy project one day.

A Tuscan Tasting

We interrupt our regularly scheduled coverage of this month's wines from Friuli to bring you some other Italian wine news from Tuscany. ("Wine Pour," by KatieW)

I recently attended a tasting of Tuscan wines at the invitation of domaine547 (you can read more about our wine adventure here), and it was a wonderful chance for me to deepen and broaden my knowledge of wines from Italy while focusing on a single region. Sponsored by Winebow, this event had some great producers and some terrific wines were poured. Here are some of my impressions:

1. Super Tuscans may rock, but Sangiovese rules. I know that some folks love powerful Super Tuscans, with their blends of Cabernet, Merlot, and other grape varieties, but as far as I'm concerned, give me Sangiovese. Some of the Super Tuscans I tasted were indistinguishable from Bordeaux reds, others could be mistaken for Rhone wines. They were yummy, well-made, and many of the other tasters seemed to like their power and pizazz. I like my Sangioveses, thank you very much, such as the 2005 Fanti Rosso di Montalcino made with 100% sangiovese and full of aromas and flavors of plum, prune, and cherry. These are great food wines. And I've found it online for between $16 and $20.

2. Italian wine can be REALLY expensive. I was absolutely stunned to see the prices. Not that there weren't good buys (see #5) but all in all, Tuscan wines will put a dent in your wallet. and the declining dollar is not going to help. So if Tuscan wines are your thing, start saving up and economizing elsewhere because the good stuff is going to cost you--especially if it's a Super Tuscan. The 2005 Tua Rita Redigaffi, for example, while excellent, retails for between $170 and $300.

3. Leather? Yes, it's in there. If I had a lot of money, I may well put it into Brunello. If you've never had a Brunello, you owe it to yourself to have one before you die. They are some seriously sexy wines, with their luscious fruit, aromas of aged leather, and more than a hint of mystery. Some of the Brunellos that stood out for me were the 2000 Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino, with its heady aromas of blackberry and leather, pure flavors, and long finish. ($66-110), the 2003 Altesino Montosoli Brunello di Montalcino's perfumed plum blossom, lavender, and leather bottling that had beautiful silkiness and a berried palate ($138), and the 2003 Fanti Brunello di Montalcino ($80), which was also beautifully perfumed with layers of fruit, spice, and tobacco in the aromas and palate.

4. Tuscan wine varies--a lot--from vintage to vintage and maker to maker. We had the opportunity to taste different vintages of the same wine next to each other, and wines made from grapes grown close to each other by different makers. The contrasts were sharp--and alarming. Tuscan wines are not homogenized. As a buyer, you need to be aware of that and make your purchases carefully.

5. Tuscan--whites? Why, yes. One of my favorite wines from the tasting was the 2006 La Parrina Ansonica Costa dell'Argentario ($13), which had sea spray, floral, and citrus aromas and flavors. I also liked the 2006 Terre di Talamo Vento Vermentinto IGT Maremma Toscana ($17-21) which had a nice roundness in its melon and citrus flavors and a well-balanced finish.

6.There are great values to be found, but if you can buy wines that you've tasted first--or from a wine merchant whose palate you trust. Sangioveses can be a bit harsh and acidic in some vintages and in the hands of some winemakers, so go to tastings in wine shops and drink glasses of Tuscan reds in restaurants when you get the chance to find some of the names, vintages, and blends that you like. My bargain pick without question was the 2004 Castellare Chianti Classico, which had surprising depth for a wine that only costs $19-24. Notes of leather, herbs, and plum were wrapped up in a silky-textured package. Great wine, great winemaking--and a great price, too.

I had a great time at the Tuscan tasting, so thanks to domaine547 for asking me along for the ride.

GWU$20 News

Just as I'm about to head out for a Burgundy tasting (report to follow) I got the heads-up that Jill from domaine547 posted an interview with me about my recent tasting of Tuscan wines (full report on that here at GWU$20 this Friday).

I was lucky enough to be asked to go along for the ride with domaine547, and tasted some great wines both within and well outside my normal price brackets. It was fun and instructive--and packed with wine buyers from across LA.

Jill also announced that I put together a "round the world" blogger pack for them, which is now available in the store. Turns out that picking great affordable wine from a bewildering range of options is harder than I thought--thank God there are folks who do it for a living, so we can spend less time choosing and more time drinking great wine. I'll be interested in hearing what you think of the lineup of wines I picked--there are some beauties in there, including a fairly hard to find chenin blanc. Jill will have more information on the blogger pack later in the week, and I will too, but if you can't wait you can certainly go ahead and check it out now--3 great wines for $45 + shipping to wherever you are.

How I Cross-Trained My Palate

A month ago I reminded readers that they could be the unwitting victims of palate fatigue if they didn't remember that palates, just like everything else, need cross-training to remain sharp. I encouraged everybody to do something outside their wine comfort zone in order to get their palates tingling and ready for 2008.

What did I do? I turned to Cabernet Franc, which (like Gatorade) is my training liquid of choice. Why? Because nothing wakes your palate, and the aroma sensors that co-pilot it, like Cab Franc. It's not like other red wines, in that it often tastes green. It challenges you to think outside the fruit-forward box, and appreciate the herbal things in life. And it is grown in places as diverse as Bordeaux, the North Coast of the US, Hungary, and Argentina. It is one of the world's most classic, and least appreciated, grapes. And I don't drink it all that often, so it made it perfect for cross-training purposes.

What was it like? The 2004 Lang & Reed Red Shed North Coast that I opened met all of my cross-training expectations, since patience, persistence, and an open mind were required to fully appreciate this very good QPR wine. (domaine547, $17.99) It had pronounced aromas of aromas of green pepper and cassis upon first opening it, and these elements made up the dominant flavors, too. I immediately felt challenged. It was not Mt. Kilimanjaro, but it was like facing one of those rock walls with the fake toe-holds in it. Something scary and not scary at the same time. So I waited about an hour and tried again. A nice, silky plushness had emerged which helped to keep the green pepper (which hadn't gone away) in check. I tried it with food, and felt like I was beginning to hit my stride with this wine. It cried out for one of those louche meals of my suburban childhood: pepper steak with white rice. I had it with a burger instead, but I kept thinking of pepper steak.

I corked the rest of the bottle, and decided to try it again the next day. I didn't use any preservative or vacuum pumps, because I wanted this wine to get some air into it. I'm glad I did, because it was very different. One thing remained: that lovely plushness, which reminded me of an old silk-velvet opera coat that belonged to my grandmother: silky, soft, and deep. I tasted black currants and plum, and the pepperiness was more rich than green but retained a nice freshness. On night two I had it with a Rachael Ray chicken chili and it was a terrific pairing, with the wine standing up to the tomatoes and peppers in the dish without overpowering them.

After I drank my cab franc, all the white wines I tasted seemed fresher, the red wines fruitier. At the same time, I felt tuned into the herbal, grassy, and forest notes of these wines in ways that I hadn't been before. Instead of things tasting "green" they tasted of tarragon, thyme, and pine. My impressions were indeed sharper, and more specific. Cross-training is definitely worth it, based on this limited attempt.

Cross-Training for Your Palate

About six weeks ago I read a wonderful article by one of my favorite wine writers, Jancis Robinson, that talked about "cellar palate" among wine-makers, a phrase that is commonly used to describe what happens when a maker tastes too much of her or his own wine and not enough that comes from beyond arm's reach. She linked cellar palate to the adaptation of a writer's or consumer's palate to local flavors and styles of wine making. Whether its drinking wine from only one region, one vintage, one maker, or made with only one grape, this narrowness of focus may have benefits in terms of expertise. But Robinson contended that it also leads to a diminished ability to detect elements of wines such as high acid, or under-ripe fruit, or high alcohol. (image from Blue Dog Yoga)

The way to keep your palate sharp and flexible is to vary the wines that you drink, from high acid whites to mellow, aged red beauties. You need to "drink globally" as Robinson put it, too. Try alternating your Rhone reds with one or two from Paso Robles, so you can learn how different winemakers and different places produce very different wines with the same grape. Even if you're a bargain hunter like me, throw an expensive bottle into the mix once a year, just to see what it tastes like. Practicing the old chestnut that "variety is the spice of life" will help you to appreciate all that the wine world has to offer.

If you have a tart sauvignon blanc and a mellow, peppery syrah you can see how varying your wine diet can help you to perceive elements in each wine that you may have taken for granted, or even missed. Open both bottles and take a sip of the sauvignon blanc. You will probably taste something fresh, crisp, and refreshing with lots of citrus. Then take a sip of the syrah. It will seem so rich, opulent, peppery, and even velvety, that you might think this is the best syrah you've ever tasted (even if it isn't). Now go back to the sauvignon blanc. It will probably strike you with its cleanness, you will smell grassy notes or herbs even if you didn't before, and the citrus may now be more precise like "meyer lemon" or "lime."

Palates need cross-training just as much as quadriceps do. Keeping your palate sharp and in good shape will benefit every wine you drink. Even if you want to stick to nothing but California zinfandels for most of your drinking, take time out every now and again for a complete break--a muscadet, a chenin blanc, a riesling. You may never become an avowed white wine drinker, but you will go back to your zinfandel with freshly-honed taste buds ready to accept every plummy, cherry, and cracked black pepper note. The same goes if you "only drink whites." If you aren't trying a red every now and again, your palate will get flabby and over-familiar with the wines that are in your comfort zone.

Promise yourself that you'll drink one wine that challenges your palate between now and January 11, 2008. If you've got a blog, post about your experiences there. If you don't, feel free to post it here in the comments. On January 11 I'll post about how I stretched my palate, and you can add your experiences to those comments, too. Let's face it: this is the most fun "fitness" activity you're likely to engage in between now and then!

Winery Watch: Alma Rosa Winery and Vineyards

An ongoing series of Friday posts highlighting California family wineries. You might not be familiar with all of these vineyards and winemakers--yet--but they produce wines that speak with the voices of this state's people, places, and history. They are worth seeking out. These posts will be longer than most posts on the blog, but I hope you will find them perfect for leisurely weekend reading and internet browsing. To read previous posts in the series, click here.

Sometimes, old friends can be hiding behind new names. Take Alma Rosa Winery. Ring any bells?

OK, how about Sanford? As in Pinot Noir? As in Sideways?

There is a new/old family winery in the Santa Rita Hills. Owned by Richard and Thekla Sanford (that's the old part) and named Alma Rosa (the new part), this winery is producing some great wines (the best part!). The first Santa Barbara Pinot Noir I ever had was back in the late 90s--and it was made by the Sanfords. I'm so glad that I get to enjoy wines that they've crafted once again. (photo of Thekla and Richard from the Alma Rosa Winery and Vineyards website).

The Sanfords are inextricably bound to the history of the Santa Barbara wine region, and deservedly so. In 1970, Richard Sanford planted the very first pinot noir grapes in the Santa Rita Hills in what would become the legendary Sanford and Benedict Vineyard. At the time, most were skeptical about pinot noir's chances in this region. But the vines thrived, and in 1981, Richard and his wife, Thekla, started a little winery called Sanford and set up their tasting room in a tin-roofed shack. There, the Sanfords began to turn the wine world on its head with their pinot. A little movie called Sideways, some of which was shot in their very own tin-roofed shack, didn't hurt either. No merlot here, thank you very much. They grow Pinot Noir in them there hills.

In 2005 the Sanfords left the company that had been their namesake, and began Alma Rosa Winery and Vineyards. With Alma Rosa, the Sanfords have rededicated themselves to the practice of organic, sustainable agriculture in the vineyard. Over 100 acres of vineyards are under certified, organic cultivation, and the Sanfords are also supporters of efforts to reintroduce Peregrine falcons into the wild. Recovered falcons find their wings again in the La Encantada Vineyard, and do their bit to keep pests out of there without chemical pesticides. (photo of Thekla Sanford from the Alma Rosa website)

This fall, I got a chance to visit the new/old tasting room for Alma Rosa Winery and Vineyards, which is once again located in that old tin-roofed barn down the gravel path and over the winter creek just past the El Jabali vineyard. They took up residence there again in July 2007 after a brief hiatus. The tasting room staff is friendly and welcoming, the wines are superb, and the atmosphere is laid-back. If you find yourself in the Santa Rita Hills one day, make sure you stop in there.

What follows are my notes and impressions of the wines I enjoyed at Alma Rosa Winery this fall. The prices indicated here are the suggested retail prices at the winery; as always the price you pay may be higher or lower at your local merchant. Clicking on a wine's name takes you either to a list of merchants who stock the wine, or to the online order form that will enable you to get some of the wine into your own private tasting room.

2006 Alma Rosa Pinot Gris ($16). Juicy white peach and citrus aromas and flavors, with a note of almond on the palate that extends into the finish. This excellent wine was perfectly balanced between the flavorful fruit and the bright acidity. A versatile, food-friendly wine with excellent QPR.

2005 Alma Rosa Pinot Noir Vin Gris El Jabali Vineyard ($20). This is not a rosy rose. Pale salmon in color, this dry wine tends slightly towards copper. The aromas were of field-fresh, slightly under-ripe strawberries, or those little French wild strawberries called frais des bois. Tart strawberry flavors, too, with no hint of watermelon. Very distinctive, and very good QPR.

2005 Alma Rosa Pinot Blanc ($18). This creamy pinot blanc spent seven months in neutral oak barrels, which produced rich aromas of melon and pear. Very nice, and a good wine for richer fish and chicken dishes. Very good QPR.

2005 Alma Rosa Pinot Noir La Encantada Vineyard ($49). This was fantastic. Aromas and flavors of brown sugar, cherry, eucalyptus, and pine. Lots of complexity in the finish, with earth and spice notes added. Expensive, but good QPR nevertheless for a classic Santa Barbara pinot noir.

2005 Alma Rosa Pinot Noir ($36). Fresh raspberry, rhubarb, and spice aromas are all found in the flavors, which turn a touch candied on the finish. Nice balance and complexity, and it would be great with food (especially mushroom dishes). Good QPR.

2005 Alma Rosa Chardonnay El Jabali Vineyard ($30) This is one wild chardonnay, which is full and round despite the fact that the wine didn't go through malolactic fermentation. The aromas and flavors are reminiscent of a freshly cut pineapple, and there is a twist of lime on the finish. Another distinctive wine, with good QPR.

When you spot a new label, like Alma Rosa, be sure to look behind it and find the people who are making that wine. They may be old friends, and when you open up your "new" bottle you may feel like you've come home.

Exploring Portuguese Wines: They're the Next Big Thing

I'm a novice when it comes to Portuguese wine. Until recently I'd never had anything other than port from this region. WBW #38 really opened my eyes to the wonderful variety and stunning value of Portuguese wines, and so it was especially exciting for me to attend yesterday's "Wines and Portos of Portugal" tasting in Los Angeles at the Ritz-Carlton in Marina del Ray. Sponsored by the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto and ViniPortugal, I learned so much from this tasting.

Yesterday's event was one of a series of tastings that are being held throughout the country to introduce folks to Portuguese wine, and if you are living in Portland, Seattle, or Boston I highly recommend that you attend one of the public tasting events that is happening over the next few days and weeks. More than seventeen different producers were there, pouring both ports and table wines. The cost is only $25-$30 and the proceeds benefit local humane societies (the cover image from the program celebrating another indigenous Portuguese beauty, the water dog, is to the right).

So what did I learn from my tasting?

1. Portuguese wines are food friendly. I sampled dozens of wines and I can say in truth that I didn't taste a single one that didn't make me think, "oh, this would be so great with X food." The real revelation for me here was Trincadeira, a native varietal that has all the silky and fruity qualities of pinot noir, with aromas of summer flowers and fields. The 2006 Vila Santa Trincadeira made by Joao Portugal Ramos was silky, and tasted like blackberries and cream. It would have been perfect with any food that you normally pair with pinot noir. I was so keen on Trinacadeira by the time I left the tasting that I went home and opened up a bottle that was in my cellar!

2. Portuguese wines represent insanely good value. Many of the wines I tasted are not yet available in the States (see #5) but of those that were, I was taken aback at how inexpensive they were compared to other US and European bottlings. Most were well under $20. And they had complexity and finesse, to boot.

3. Portugal produces aromatic reds and crisp whites. Portuguese wines will clear all the cobwebs out of your palate. These whites were crisp, clean and lively, especially wines such as the NV Aveleda Vinho Verde, which retails in most places for around $5. Some tasted like champagne without bubbles, like the 2006 Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde which retails for around $6. On the red side, the table wines had amazing, evocative aromas of flowers, herbs, and stone. The 2003 Herdade do Meio Garrafeira from Alentejo smelled of violets, and had flavors of blackberry and cherry. The 2006 Marques de Borba had aromas of cherry blossom and raspberry. And the 2003 Conde de Vimiosa Reserva exploded in your mouth with eucalyptus, cherry, and an intriguing note of grilled meat.

4. Portuguese wine makers are experimenting with the newer "international style" of wines, but they haven't forgotten their wine-making roots. Trinacadeira, Touriga, and Maria Gomes are just some of the varietals that I tasted yesterday, and they are featured in the blends that so many Portuguese wine makers favor. There is cabernet sauvignon, too, and Aragonese (as the Portuguese call Tempranillo), as well as Alicante Bouschet. Portuguese wine makers are clearly dabbling in the more international style of wines made with more oak and heavier body. One of the standouts of this style for me was the 2004 Bacalhoa Palacio da Bacalhoa, with its blend of Touriga, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. This was smooth, silky, and aromatic with dry black cherry flavors and a sophisticated use of oak to lend it some grip and smokiness. But they are not leaving their native varietals, relatively low alcohol levels, and traditional flavor profiles entirely behind, either.

5. Portuguese wines need wider distribution to US consumers. These are fantastic, fantastic wines. Yet many of them are not available in the US. If you are a store owner, distributor or sales rep and you are reading this, what are you waiting for? I found 1 bottle of Portuguese wine in my area of LA last month after 3 weeks of searching and visits to nearly a half dozen stores. US consumers are thirsty for more great value wines, and they are more willing to try new varietals than ever before. Help us out, and bring these wines into our stores. If you are skeptical, I assure you that one Saturday tasting is all it will take to get them flying off the shelves.

After this tasting, I am fully convinced that Portuguese wines are the next big thing. Spanish wines have primed us for all that the Iberian peninsula has to offer. And what a fun trip it will be to explore this region and its wines! I'll have some more specific notes on wines and producers in upcoming posts, but until then start asking your local merchants to stock some Portuguese wines.

I sure hope that this will become an annual event here in LA, because I ran out of time before I tasted a drop of the ports that were being poured! And they were pouring some that were 40-years old.

Tasting Room: Roshambo Winery

Roshambo Winery, the unpretentious and fun winery that is also home to an annual Rock/Paper /Scissors tournament, has a new tasting room. What could be better than telling you about it, and what you might be able to taste there, in this week's Tasting Room feature?

After selling its previous winery and tasting room on Westside Road in Healdsburg, and then moving their operations slightly down the road into the "Roshambus," Roshambo's Naomi Brilliant secured space for a public tasting room in Carneros at Cornerstone Place.

If you are out Carneros way, I urge you to stop by and help them celebrate their new digs. While you're at it, you can taste some awfully good wine, like the wines described below that I sampled at this summer's Family Winemaker's Event in San Francisco. The prices indicated below in brackets are the recommended retail price. Clicking on a highlighted wine name in any of the notes takes you to Wine-Searcher, where I was able to find listings for some of the wines. To purchase the full range of Roshambo wines, including those not listed on Wine-Searcher, visit their online store.

2005 Roshambo Zinfandel The Reverend ($16). Another wine made with Dry Creek Valley fruit. This had a nice long finish on this brambly blackberry-flavored wine. Cracked pepper aromas and spiciness on the finish added to the interest. Excellent QPR.

2005 Roshambo Sauvignon Blanc The Obvious ($15). Very much in the style of a New Zealand sauvignon blanc, this wine had zesty citrus and gooseberry aromas and flavors. Nice value, and very good QPR.

2005 Roshambo Syrah Rosé Imoan ($16). Made from Dry Creek Valley fruit, this wine had strawberry aromas and flavors tending towards watermelon as you headed towards the finish. Nice notes of rose petal, and a zingy pink grapefruit accent at the very end. Very good QPR.

2005 Roshambo Chardonnay Imago ($17) Nice pear and mineral aromas and flavors dominate this wine, complemented by nuances of white peach and lemon. Clean and refreshing, and one of my Thanksgiving picks. Very good QPR.

2005 Roshambo Carignane The Rat ($25). Spicy red fruit in a silky, open-textured package. Accents of cinnamon and clove in the aromas and on the finish. Very good QPR.

2004 Roshambo Syrah Justice ($25). I liked this wine, with its dark, dark color and aromas of caramel and brown sugar. These were a nice prelude the blackberry fruit flavors, and the spicy finish. Good QPR--and if you can get it for less on sale or from your local merchant, very good QPR.

2005 Roshambo Pinot Noir “Frank” Frank Johnson Vineyards ($25) Roshambo’s first ever pinot noir, this is aromatic with high-toned cherry flavors. There is a rich finish, but the flavors beforehand are a bit hollow. Good QPR.

Have a great weekend, and we'll see you back here next week.