Chiant vs. Chianti Classico

If you've never tasted a Chianti and a Chianti Classico side by side, you might wonder what the difference is--besides the price.

Chianti and Chianti Classico are both Tuscan wines, produced under strict regulations that limit what grapes go into the wines (mostly Sangiovese) and where the grapes are grown. There are actually eight Chianti wines, each coming from a different region of Tuscany. They are: Chianti Classico; Chianti Montalba; Chianti Colli Fiorentini; Chianti Montespertoli; Chianti Rufina; Chianti Colli Senesi; Chianti Colline Pisane; Chianti Colli Aretini; and just Chianti, which covers vineyards in areas outside these more specific places. Many of these regions produce small amounts of wine, and they are not common in the US market.

We are awash, however, in Chianti and Chianti Classico. New vintages of Chianti come into the market after March 1 of the year following the harvest. Chianti Classico arrives later, after October 1.

What most of us care about, however, is how do the wines taste? Here are my impressions of two wines--one Chianti, and one Chianti Classico--from the same maker. One is available for around $10, the other fpr $15-$20. Both wines represent very good QPR--but they taste very, very different, and would suit different kinds of food.

The 2006 Tiziano Chianti (available for $8-$11), for example, stuck in my mind as the Italian equivalent of a Gamay from the Beaujolais. There were fresh sour cherry aromas and flavors. It wasn't a particularly complex wine, but it would be great with pizza and pasta with red sauce, served slightly colder than you would most red wines. And it cost about the same as an ordinary Beaujolais, which means it's an affordable everyday red.

The 2004 Tiziano Chianti Classico Gold (available for $15-$20), on the other hand, was much more complex. I detected richer cherry, violet and leather aromas and flavors. This wine was smooth and velvety on the tongue, and the 12 months it spent in French oak barriques produced a wine that was heavier in the mouth and tasted more robust than the Chianti. For food pairings with the Chianti Classico I'd think more of grilled beef, or something like the excellent baked pasta dish with a pork sugo that we had with these wines. (Tip: this is one of those dishes designed for hassle free entertaining on a day you have some time to be at home and let the sauce simmer on the stove. Assembly is quick, and then you pop the casserole in the oven 45 minutes before you want to eat--during which time you can sit down and enjoy the evening with your guests.)

I confess that I've been a bit snobbish in the past when it comes to Chianti, and since Chianti Classico or Chianti Classico Riserva bottlings can often come in at over $20 I've not been drinking much Chianti lately. This side-by-side tasting changed all that. Not only were both these wines affordable, they provided two different flavor profiles. It wasn't a case of one wine being "better" than the other--they were just different. And deliciously so.

2008 Top Twenty Wines Under $20

It's time once again for the annual GWU$20 "Top Twenty Wines Under $20." (photo from peopleconnectors.org)

Each year I go through my tasting notes and gather together the most memorable and exciting wines I tasted. Then I hit the internet and make sure that they're available--for under $20. Who wants to get excited about a wine only to discover you can't get it anymore?

The world is awash with year end, top (fill in the blank) wine lists. Here's my contribution. You won't find many of these wines on other lists--I can promise you that!

What was the best wine you tasted this year? Share your favorite in the comments below, and of course if you've had any of these wines and agree with me, tell the world that, too.

Here they are, in reverse order. Click on any of the wine names to search for a retailer near you who might stock the wine.

20. 2006 Domaine Vissoux/Pierre Chermette Cuvée Traditionelle Gamay ($13-$18). Shy aromas of cherry, berry, and some chalk. The flavors are pure, juicy Bing cherry with an earthy undertow and some mineral notes in the aftertaste. Drinkable now, and should still have a few years left in it, too.

19. 2006 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast ($12-22). Very, very good Pinot Noir for the price. High toned cherry and raspberry fruit aromas, with a touch of allspice. Silky texture, and flavors of cherry, raspberry, allspice, and cobbler.

18. 2004 Domaine de la Noblaie Les Chiens-Chiens (around $20). The best Cabernet Franc I've ever had. Smoky, vegetable, and red fruit aromas combine nicely on the palate with a long, smoky aftertaste. Medium body, nice texture in the mouth.

17. 2003 Castelnau de Suduiraut Sauternes ($13-$36/375 ml). A honey-colored wine, with aromas of pineapple, coconut, and honey. Good acidity on the palate, which tasted of pineapple dipped in honey and deepened and gained weight as the wine opened up.

16. 2006 Mauritson Sauvignon Blanc ($13-$15). One of the best domestic Sauvignon Blancs I've had in a long time. Fresh and grassy, but not assertive with warmer melon, Meyer lemon, and clementine flavors.

15. 2006 Fort Ross Pinot Noir Rosé ($12-$16). A lovely, relatively full-bodied rose with aromas and flavors of strawberry and mineral. Delicious.

14. 2005 La Sibilla Piedirosso ($11-$15) An Italian red for Burgundy lovers. Light, true garnet in color, very clear and bright. Aromas of bacon fat and smoke, with a bit of high-toned black cherry underneath and flavors of leather, tar, and black cherry.

13. NV Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley ($15-$20) Pale straw in color, with abundant mousse and a small bead. Aromas of brioche and Meyer lemon and flavors of apples, toast, and a firm, nutty edge. Just terrific.

12. 2005 Arnaldo-Caprai Grechetto ($9-$24) Yummy, distinctive wine. Truly golden in color, with aromas of pears, herbs, and honeycomb. Slightly frizzante upon first opening, which dissipates quickly. Flavors run to orchard fruits--pears, a hint of white peach--with a zingy flash of lemon pith at the finish.

11. 2004 Di Majo Norante Aglianico Contado ($11-$20) Aromas of blackberry, tea, and a whiff of roses. Flavors of blackberry tending towards blueberry, tea, sassafras, and a little minty lift in the aftertaste.

10. 2004 La Rochelle Pinot Noir ($20) Beautiful, bright ruby color. Aromas of cherry and spice give way to flavors of cherry, pepper, and allspice with a spicy finish. Nicely made, with great acidity at the core.

9. 2006 Spann Vineyards Betsy's Backacher Bottle Blond ($14-$20) Contender for all around house white with its blend of Viognier, Semillon, and Chardonnay. Expect aromas of yellow apple, pear, and a touch of peach from the Viognier and flavors that are soft and round nectarine, peach, and apple.

8. 2007 Vignerons des Terres Secretes Chateau du Charnay ($18.60) Aromas of creme fraiche and pear and flavors of pear, apple, sour cream, and grapefruit pith. Very fresh and subtle, this is a wine for those who don't like the big California style. Excellent value.

7. 2007 James David Cellars Dry Muscat (price N/A, will be available directly from winery soon) A first offering, and a great dry muscat. Clear pale straw in color. Honeysuckle and mandarin orange peel aromas. Dry flavors of beeswax, Meyer lemon, and grapefruit pith.

6. 2002 Domaine des Baumard Savennieres ($11-$24) Aromas of lime, chalk, and almonds and flavors that were nutty, mineral, and citrus (somewhere between lime and lemon). Chalky finish. Piercing quality to the flavors, not sharp but very intense.

5. 2005 Veramonte Primus ($11-$26) Mix of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenere. Heady aromas and flavors of plum, blackberry, spice, and plum blossom. Satiny texture, integrated tannins, and a cedar-spice finish. Nicely made, well-balanced.

4. 2006 Adelsheim Pinot Gris ($14-$20) Delicious aromas of peach, honey, and a kiss of carmelized sugar. Lots of acidity to keep the peach and apple flavors in balance. Long, luscious aftertaste.

3. 2005 Preston of Dry Creek Valley Old Vines (I paid $20, but the price has risen) Amazing wine that's full-bodied and restrained at the same time. Aromas of plums and berries, yields to a silky-textured wine full of blackberry, dark chocolate, and roast coffee notes with a peppery aftertaste.

2. NV Osborne 1827 Sweet Sherry ($11-$18) Made with Pedro Ximenez grapes, this coffee-colored wine has molasses and cherry cola aromas and flavors. It's so syrupy that I believe those who told me that they serve it over vanilla ice cream. Delicious, affordable, memorable dessert wine.

1. 2006 Brooks Riesling Willamette Valley ($14-$20) Aromas of lime, apple, meyer lemon, petrol, and stone. Flavors of lime, honey, slate, and currants. Exceptionally complex for a wine at this price point. Well worth seeking out.

Taking a Break with Albariño

I'm rich fooded out.

After the fifth holiday party, the ninth cookie platter (my downfall), and the umpteenth meal out that I start feeling this way.

I crave something lighter, something leaner, something fresher. And the same goes for my wine. I love reds--but a nice white is a lip-smacking change of pace.

So I opened up a bottle of Albariño, Spain's zesty white wine from the Riax Baixas region.

It was just the break I needed.

The 2007 Martin Codax Albariño was a very good QPR find. It had aromas of apple, pineapple, and citrus fruits that were palate cleansing without being overly acidic. These enticingly fresh scents were echoed in the flavors, which turned more pineapple-y in the aftertaste. Albariños are known for their tongue-tingly acidity, but you want there to be enough fruit as a counterbalance and this wine had it.

Albariños are made for seafood--clams, in particular--so if you are looking for a simple meal get some Littlenecks, and cook them with garlic, paprika and wine, perhaps some tomato, and a few slices or cooked chorizo or sausage and serve it with a hunk of bread to sop up the juices. Or you can do as we did and have the wine with the Barefoot Contessa's grilled salmon sandwiches with a zesty spread made with dill, capers, and basil. Either way, you will find that the acidity is lovely with the seafood or fish, and that the apple, tropical fruit, and citrus flavors are a perfect foil for the aromatics and herbs used in these dishes.

I received this wine as a sample. You will find it near you for $11-$15.

Today on Serious Grape: Super Tuscans, the Italian Super Hero

Today on Serious Grape, my weekly column on Serious Eats, I tackle a topic of heroic proportions: Italian Super Tuscans. (photo by bohman)

Many of us have heard the phrase, but I'm always surprised at how few know what the term means or how it came into being.

Today's post provides you with a little bit of history, and a tasting note for one of the more reasonable Super Tuscans in the market. Super Tuscans are not usually found under $20, and this one is no exception. But if you're looking for a special red wine for the holidays it may fit the bill and your budget. See what you think.

In addition, I posted another gift guide for wine lovers there. Yesterday, I posted my roundup of recommended wine books for this holiday season here on GWU$20. If you are looking for something that isn't a book, you will find five recommendations under $25 that might be just perfect for someone on your list.

Gift Ideas for Wine Lovers: A Roundup of Great Books

The days are passing, and unless you've done your homework about shipping laws it may be too late to send wine to the wine lovers on your list.

If good wine is out, how about a good book about wine? Personally, I think I'm even more delighted to receive a book than a bottle.

Here are some of the best books available, with my recommendations for just who might love to have them on their shelves.

For Adventurous Types
Oz Clark, Oz Clark's Grapes and Wines: the Definitive Guide to the World's Greatest Grapes and the Wines They Make ($25; $16.50 from Amazon.com)
This is the book for wine lovers who never pick Chardonnay off the wine list. It's chock full of information on rare grape varieties and it takes account of geographical diversity and how climate influences the character of grapes.

For Pinot Noir Lovers
John Winthrop Haeger, Pacific Pinot Noir: A Comprehensive Winery Guide for Consumers and Connoisseurs ($21.95; $14.93 from Amazon.com)
If you have someone on your list who loves West Coast Pinot Noir, then get them a copy of this new book. It has notes on more than two hundred wineries stretching from California through to Oregon, tasting notes, vintage reports, and more. I found Haeger's characterization of various "house styles" on target and very useful. A highly recommended new release from the University of California Press.

For History Buffs and Keepers of Great Tasting Notes
George Saintsbury, Notes on a Cellar Book ($29.95; $21.56 from Amazon.com)
George Saintsbury (1845-1933) was an English literature professor at the University of Edinburgh. In 1920, he published his Notes on a Cellar Book, a wonderful collection of reflections on drinking everything from the best French Burgundy to a refreshing pint of beer. Reading this new edition of Saintsbury's work is a glimpse into our viticultural past, as well as a revelation of how great wine and great
literature can go hand-in-hand.

For Biography Lovers--and Fans of Bubbly
Tilar J. Mazzeo, The Widow Clicquot: The story of a Champagne Empire and the Woman Who Ruled It ($25.95; $17.13 from Amazon.com)
I've been waiting for this book for a long, long time. Finally, Tilar Mazzeo tells us the compelling story of Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin (aka Veuve Clicquot). How this woman transformed the reputation of Champagne from a lowly tipple to the toast of tsars and emperors sheds light on the power of image in the wine business and the determination of one woman to do things her way despite years of tradition and resistance.


For Mystery Lovers
Benjamin Wallace, The Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle of Wine ($24.95; $16.47 from Amazon.com)
Combine a famous president, some classic Bordeaux, a lot of wrangling for the "best" and the "rarest" and you get the perfect conditions for fraud, skulduggery, and behind-the-scenes machinations that would but Machiavelli to shame. This is a real page-turner, and will delight history fans and wine collectors as well as mystery buffs.

For Those Just Beginning Their Journey Into Wine
Tyler Colman, A Year of Wine: Perfect Pairings, Great Buys, and What to Sip for Each Season ($24.00; $17.44 from Amazon.com)
Colman's new book is the perfect choice if you have someone on your list who is new to wine or is intimidated by wine. Taking a steady, month-by-month approach, Colman proves that context is all and that the wine you love in January may not be the one you want to sip in August. Specific recommendations and travel tips accompany pairing suggestions and round out this accessible, informative guide. It's like having Dr. Vino right in your house whenever you need him!

Even last minute shoppers are sure to find something here to suit almost everyone on their list. And with no shipping restrictions, you are sure to be able to get your gift to its recipient in time for the holidays.

Full disclosure: With the exception of Oz Clarke's book, I received these books as samples.