Today on Serious Grape: Super Tuscans, the Italian Super Hero

Today on Serious Grape, my weekly column on Serious Eats, I tackle a topic of heroic proportions: Italian Super Tuscans. (photo by bohman)

Many of us have heard the phrase, but I'm always surprised at how few know what the term means or how it came into being.

Today's post provides you with a little bit of history, and a tasting note for one of the more reasonable Super Tuscans in the market. Super Tuscans are not usually found under $20, and this one is no exception. But if you're looking for a special red wine for the holidays it may fit the bill and your budget. See what you think.

In addition, I posted another gift guide for wine lovers there. Yesterday, I posted my roundup of recommended wine books for this holiday season here on GWU$20. If you are looking for something that isn't a book, you will find five recommendations under $25 that might be just perfect for someone on your list.

Gift Ideas for Wine Lovers: A Roundup of Great Books

The days are passing, and unless you've done your homework about shipping laws it may be too late to send wine to the wine lovers on your list.

If good wine is out, how about a good book about wine? Personally, I think I'm even more delighted to receive a book than a bottle.

Here are some of the best books available, with my recommendations for just who might love to have them on their shelves.

For Adventurous Types
Oz Clark, Oz Clark's Grapes and Wines: the Definitive Guide to the World's Greatest Grapes and the Wines They Make ($25; $16.50 from Amazon.com)
This is the book for wine lovers who never pick Chardonnay off the wine list. It's chock full of information on rare grape varieties and it takes account of geographical diversity and how climate influences the character of grapes.

For Pinot Noir Lovers
John Winthrop Haeger, Pacific Pinot Noir: A Comprehensive Winery Guide for Consumers and Connoisseurs ($21.95; $14.93 from Amazon.com)
If you have someone on your list who loves West Coast Pinot Noir, then get them a copy of this new book. It has notes on more than two hundred wineries stretching from California through to Oregon, tasting notes, vintage reports, and more. I found Haeger's characterization of various "house styles" on target and very useful. A highly recommended new release from the University of California Press.

For History Buffs and Keepers of Great Tasting Notes
George Saintsbury, Notes on a Cellar Book ($29.95; $21.56 from Amazon.com)
George Saintsbury (1845-1933) was an English literature professor at the University of Edinburgh. In 1920, he published his Notes on a Cellar Book, a wonderful collection of reflections on drinking everything from the best French Burgundy to a refreshing pint of beer. Reading this new edition of Saintsbury's work is a glimpse into our viticultural past, as well as a revelation of how great wine and great
literature can go hand-in-hand.

For Biography Lovers--and Fans of Bubbly
Tilar J. Mazzeo, The Widow Clicquot: The story of a Champagne Empire and the Woman Who Ruled It ($25.95; $17.13 from Amazon.com)
I've been waiting for this book for a long, long time. Finally, Tilar Mazzeo tells us the compelling story of Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin (aka Veuve Clicquot). How this woman transformed the reputation of Champagne from a lowly tipple to the toast of tsars and emperors sheds light on the power of image in the wine business and the determination of one woman to do things her way despite years of tradition and resistance.


For Mystery Lovers
Benjamin Wallace, The Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle of Wine ($24.95; $16.47 from Amazon.com)
Combine a famous president, some classic Bordeaux, a lot of wrangling for the "best" and the "rarest" and you get the perfect conditions for fraud, skulduggery, and behind-the-scenes machinations that would but Machiavelli to shame. This is a real page-turner, and will delight history fans and wine collectors as well as mystery buffs.

For Those Just Beginning Their Journey Into Wine
Tyler Colman, A Year of Wine: Perfect Pairings, Great Buys, and What to Sip for Each Season ($24.00; $17.44 from Amazon.com)
Colman's new book is the perfect choice if you have someone on your list who is new to wine or is intimidated by wine. Taking a steady, month-by-month approach, Colman proves that context is all and that the wine you love in January may not be the one you want to sip in August. Specific recommendations and travel tips accompany pairing suggestions and round out this accessible, informative guide. It's like having Dr. Vino right in your house whenever you need him!

Even last minute shoppers are sure to find something here to suit almost everyone on their list. And with no shipping restrictions, you are sure to be able to get your gift to its recipient in time for the holidays.

Full disclosure: With the exception of Oz Clarke's book, I received these books as samples.

Gift Ideas for Wine Lovers: Giving Wine that Gives Back

A lot of people want to give wine to friends and family for the holidays.

If you are looking for a perfect gift of wine--one that costs under $50 (+shipping) and tastes great--I've found it.

And the best part? The profits from your purchase go to charities including America's Second Harvest, Habitat for Humanity, and Reading is Fundamental.

Humanitas Wines is the brainchild of Judd Wallenbrock. After twenty years in the wine biz, Judd decided he wanted to not only make wine, he wanted to make a difference. Since 2002, he's been doing just that. Lately, he's been promoting his vision of "drinking charitably" on his own blog.

This year, Judd put together a trio of affordable holiday wines for $45. The selection includes a fresh, unoaked Chardonnay that will make you think you are in an apple orchard; a lively Sauvignon Blanc with abundant pink grapefruit flavors; and a rich and fruity Cabernet Sauvignon full of blackberry and blueberry notes. I got a chance to sample all three of the wines and they were all excellent QPR that are versatile and food-friendly. I'm not the only one to think these are terrific: check out the tasting notes from the recent Twitter Taste Live event. (Never heard of a Twitter Taste Live? Check out their site, too.)

Now more than ever we need to think of people who are less fortunate than we are. If you want to give a wine lover you know a gift that you can feel good about giving, head over to Humanitas Wines and order their holiday pack.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #51: Baked Goods

Today is the 51st Wine Blogging Wednesday. Today's theme was picked by the #1 Wine Dude Joe Roberts. He asked us to drink something "baked." What Joe meant by this was he wanted us to pick a wine that had been deliberately heated and oxidized (otherwise known as Madeirized after the classic Madeira wines from Portugal).

Wisely, Joe realized that these might be hard to locate. So he gave us the option of tasting Port or Sherry instead.

Because life is fairly nuts right now with relatives stopping by and the semester winding to a close, I decided to write today about rare sherries. I had the opportunity to taste some when I was a guest of Osborne in May, and one of the reasons I wanted to highlight them today is because they are not only great wines, they represent excellent QPR if you are looking for a single dessert wine that you can have on hand during the holidays and serve over several weeks without them going off or tasting stale.

The reason why this is possible is because they have been fortified with Brandy. This means that if you stopper them up and keep them in a cool dark place you can drink them over weeks, and in some cases months. It also means that they pack a serious punch, so tiny glasses are in order.

N.V. Osborne Rare Sherry Pedro Ximénez Viejo ($100)
Quite simply, this is the best wine I have ever tasted. It opened to a thick blackish brown. At first, I tasted coffee, dark chocolate, and burnt sugar. As it opened, there was an increasing lift of candied lemon and orange peel, some molasses, and even coconut oil. Every time you took a sip, it tasted different--but every sip was delicious.

N.V. Osborne Rare Sherry Solera BC 200 (sorry--couldn't find this anywhere!)
This sherry was drawn from the famous “ABC” solera. The “A” barrels were sold to the Tsar of Russia, leaving 200 “BC” barrels. If you can get your hands on some (lucky you!) you will smell aromas and taste flavors of citrus, toffee, and a little black tea and a brandied cherry aftertaste. This wine was complex, fine, and unforgettable.

N.V. Osborne Rare India Oloroso ($78-$90)
The wine in this bottling is an average of 35-50 years old. This wine was all about caramel aromas and flavors. I tasted not only caramels but sea salt, toast, and burnt sugar. Another fantastic wine.

N.V. Osborne Rare Sherry Palo Cortado Solera PAP ($100)
A stunning sweet wine, with candied orange and toffee aromas. The flavors were a bit less sweet than the aromas suggested, turning to orange marmalade and brown sugar. Dessert in a glass.

N.V. Osborne Sherry 1827 Sweet Sherry ($11-$24)
A budget-friendly and more widely available version of the rare wine listed first, this is nothing like what you would expect. It is coffee-colored, with molasses and cherry cola aromas and flavors. It's so syrupy that I believe the people who told me that they serve it over vanilla ice cream in place of chocolate syrup. Sounds like a perfect dessert to me!

For those of you who think I've lost my mind to label a $100 wine "excellent QPR," fear not. I haven't lost my mind. For $100, you get the perfect ending to every holiday meal from late November all the way through late December. And if you are looking for a special gift for a wine-loving friend? This is it. Those of you on tighter budgets (like me) can get their hands on that 1827 Sweet Sherry and a pint of Häagen-Dazs and check "desserts" off your to-do list.

Thanks to Joe for a great theme, and one that brought back many happy memories of my time in Spain this spring. As usual, I'll have the roundup and the theme for next month's WBW for you when they're available.

Today on Serious Grape: Five Wine Books I Can't Live Without

Today in my column Serious Grape over on Serious Eats, I'm talking about the five wine books I can't live without.

The list includes a reference book, a grape guide, an annual report, a tasting book, and a food and wine pairing book. I'd love to know what you think, and whether I've missed any of your indispensable titles. Head over there and check it out if you are looking to build your own wine library, or seeking some good titles for gifts for wine-loving friends.

Also, starting this week Serious Grape goes weekly. The foodies have decided the wine coverage is a good thing, and so I'll be posting there every Friday. Monday through Thursday, it will be as usual here at GWU$20.

Have a great weekend, and see you on Monday with some more wine picks.

Stumped Making Wine Tasting Notes?

This should sort you out.

With options like "stamina to spare" in the "Finish" category and "height-weight proportionate" in the "Body" category, this is one tasting note sheet that's suitable for wine snobs and those that love them. Besides it has a "Label" category (yes, you can select "unfathomably ugly") and a coaster is included. Click on image to enlarge.

From your friends at Knock Knock, for just $6.99. Buy them by the case now, because come December they will be completely sold out. While you're there, check out the other fine products for back to work/school, like the Paper Voodoo pad, the Daily Mood Tracker mousepad, and the favorite in my office, the Dial-an-Excuse wheel.

Thanks, Dad, for the heads up!

What to Drink with What You Eat

I need to admit that I was really skeptical about Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page's book, What to Drink with What You Eat. (suggested retail price $35; available new from some retailers for under $24) People can make pairing food with wine such a big deal that they become paralyzed figuring out what the "right" wine is to serve with a tuna fish sandwich. "The definitive guide to pairing food with wine, beer, spirits, coffee, tea--even water" seemed like it would take a bad situation and make it even worse. But I was curious because the book got great reviews and a few major awards, so when the publisher asked if I'd like to take a look at a copy, I agreed.

I've now had the book for several months, and it has become one of the most referred to books in my kitchen. Actually, it doesn't stay in the kitchen but lives next to the sofa since I'm always picking it up to get some advice on what foods might go with my latest wine discovery. I highly recommend this book, and think that if you buy it you will find that you use it regularly, too.

I'm now convinced that this book is a good thing. First, it avoids the common food and wine pairing pitfall of over-specificity. I read a lot of food and wine pairing that tells you this hamburger must be eaten with this wine, but never tells you why. This book tells you, and gives you a long enough list of foods to go with your Cabernet Franc that it's actually inspiring to come up with a recipe from your collection that fits the bill. Second, the book is arranged so you can start with the food or the wine. If you start with the food you can go for a specific dish (a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is the suggested wine to go with McDonald's Filet-o-Fish sandwich, FYI), the dominant spice (cumin goes with Chardonnay), or a major ingredient (try Chablis with avocadoes).

If you start with the wine, you will be pleased to find a wider range of grape varieties than the Big Six. They suggest eight different kinds of food to go with Pinotage, the South African full-bodied red, for instance. This section of the book will be particularly useful if you are getting into more unusual varieties and are wondering what to eat with them when you try them for the first time. When I was finishing out my Wine Century I turned to this book again and again to imagine my way into what the wine would taste like, just from seeing the kinds of food they suggested for pairings.

My favorite part of the book, however, just may be the "desert island" food and wine lists that the authors draw together from a number of famous chefs. It's fun to see what Piero Selvaggio, the chef from the great LA Italian restaurant Valentino would choose. The Barolo and old Amarone I would have imagined, but not the Nero d'Avola (to be had with the little risotto croquettes known as arancini) or the Lambrusco (to have with salumi).

Even if you are a skeptic at first, you may find (as I did ) that this book quickly becomes a regular reference point. If you're looking for a gift for a wine-loving mom or dad in May and June, I'd highly recommend this book. It's thoughtfully laid out, well-written, full of interesting quotes from famous figures in the food and wine world, and provides you with both guidance and freedom to choose the perfect wine for your palate. Still wondering about that tuna fish sandwich? Dornenburg and Page suggest rose. And while you're thinking about books, don't forget to pick up a copy of this month's Book Club selection, Noble Rot: A Bordeaux Wine Revolution and to check out the Winehiker's review of this month's "Spin the Bottle" book, Wine Across America.

Wine Lovers: It's Time to Rethink the Little Black Book

There are lots of jokes out there about "little black books," the pocket-sized notebooks where you could list all your romantic triumphs, phone numbers, and seduction strategies. But I think it's time to rethink the little black book from a wine-loving perspective.

If you are a wine lover, you probably have wine information written on the back of your driver's license, on post-it notes, Trader Joe's receipts, ATM slips, and (if you are me) occupying lines in your check book that are supposed to keep a tally of your (diminishing) bank balance. What you need instead is a little black book that will become your mobile wine operations center and can be used to record everything vinous in your life.

It is imperative, I think, that the book be sturdy enough to survive being tossed into the trunk, your purse, or the stress of being sat on. It needs to be attractive enough that you don't feel like a complete dork carrying it into a tasting, and small enough that you don't leave it home rather than schlep it across town. I've found that the pre-fab "wine journals" never fit the bill, because they think I want to keep track of stuff I don't give a hoot about.

Instead, get yourself a Pierre Belvedere faux-leather notebook ($21.95 at Jenni Bick Bookbinding) which comes in a range of colors including (if you must) burgundy. Mine is black, and I carry it with me everywhere. This book is small without being minute at 4 1/2 x 6 1/2 inches. It has ruled pages that are relatively thick (no bleed-through), and the pages are perforated so that if you make a shopping list you can tear it out if you want to and throw it away. There is a handy little sewn-in bookmark to keep your place. And the covers are stiff without being bulky and slightly padded so they are easy to hold. This is a book that doesn't slip out of your hands.

What can you put in your little black book? Here's a sampling of what's in mine:

the number for the best local pizza delivery
menus and wine pairings for the week
a list of recipes I want to try from Nigella Lawson's Express cookbook
lists of wine moved up to Sonoma; list of wine moved to LA
wines I think I want to try from Trader Joe's to check on Quaffability
list of the next 12 wines coming up as "ready to drink" in Cellar Tracker
list of recommended champagnes
Wine Book Club ideas

The possibilities are endless, and once the book is filled up it can sit without embarrassment on your bookshelf, a permanent reminder of how far you've come in terms of your wine knowledge and enjoyment. If one of your resolutions for 2008 was to keep better track of your wine information, get yourself a little black book. If you use it faithfully, it will become the most frequently consulted "wine book" you own.

When Half a Bottle Is Just Right

A friend of mine recently asked for recommendations for good 375 ml bottles of wine. I occasionally buy wines in smaller bottles for nights when we are having a red-wine meal in a sea of chicken and fish, and I don't want a partially consumed bottle going stale on the counter, so I had some tips for her, but not as many as I would have liked. So I hit the web to find out more. (logo from Half-Wit Wines)

In the past, I've had trouble finding a good selection of small-format bottles of wine, so I did some scrounging on the web and came up with two key web addresses for those of you who might be looking for half bottles or wondering why on earth anyone would bother with such a thing.

The first is a recent article by Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher of the Wall Street Journal. These two well-known critics recently declared that half bottles were the next big thing in wine, and provided some good leads on where to buy bottles, what to know before you buy, and what to do with the empties after you're done. Gaiter and Brecher remind us, for instance, that wine ages faster in small bottles and that the empty bottles are perfect for short-term storage of leftover wine since the wine comes into less contact with air and therefore oxidation is much slower.

One of the stores mentioned in Gaiter and Brecher's article is my other internet find: Half-Wit Wines. Even before I read the WSJ article, I knew that this online store was a good thing. They specialize in half-bottles, and offer more than 1000 to choose from. Looking for a half-bottle of red wine from Israel? They've got it. A half-bottle of white wine from Greece? They have that, too. As you can imagine, if they have these wines they have an awfully good selection of Californian, Italian, French, and German offerings, too, not to mention wines from the Southern Hemisphere.

If you are still looking for a last-minute gift--maybe for someone who lives alone, or is just starting out in the world of wine--a mixed case of 375ml bottles would be a great gift, and one that they could enjoy for months to come. Of course, you could always buy a few bottles for yourself, including grape varieties you've never had before and some wines that are outside your comfort zone that you just want to try.

Gifts for Wine Lovers

'Tis the season for gift giving, and if you're looking for gifts that might appeal to the wine lovers in your life I've got some seasonal tips for you to help you out. Of course, if you are the wine lover in question, you can send this link to everybody that you know in hopes that you will get some goodies! These go beyond the bottles of wine, glasses, or the decanter that might be the first thing you think of, and hopefully at least one of these suggestions will fit your budget and the personality of your intended recipient.

For Generous Wine Lovers: Hopefully, that's most of us, and if you are often on the receiving end of bottles of wine from a wine-loving friend, you may want to consider giving them this great box of Wine Lovers Gift Tags ($12.95). Now, this may seem like an odd present but if you know someone who is always giving wine, then chances are they are usually ransacking the cabinets for something to put the wine in that makes it seem like a genuine gift. This box of tags (with nice sayings, and ribbon to tie them to the bottle) will be a welcome addition to their wine accoutrements.

For the Wine Lover Who is Also a Foodie: I'd get them a copy of Sid Goldstein's The Wine Lover's Cookbook ($17.50 from Jessica's Biscuit) and wrap it with this great clipboard ($28). Perfect for organizing shopping lists, menus, recipes, and the all important wine lists, the clipboard and cookbook duo will become Ground Zero for dinner parties for years to come. Goldstein's book is a food and wine classic, but it's relatively hard to find so it's a good option for holiday gifts.


For the Wine Lover Who Is Just Getting Started: I received a copy of Courtney Cochran's Hip Tastes: The Fresh Guide to Wine (Penguin Books, $18.95) from the publisher and it hooked me immediately. Cochran has a breezy style that never intimidates, yet she gives seriously good wine advice. In the book you will find succinct overviews of classic varietals (always key information), suggestions for wine and food matches for sushi and other favorite foods, and fantastic tips to help you get the most of wine vacations and touring wineries. I don't think there's a better book out there that's so approachable yet covers so much ground with everything from terroir to restaurant wine lists getting a thoughtful treatment. If the person you're buying for is not only just starting out but also under 30, this book would be perfect. If you are at all doubtful, check out her blog, Hip Tastes. I think it will convince you that she's got the right stuff.

For the Wine Lover Who Seemingly Has Everything: First, this is just not possible. Second, they probably don't have a subscription to Decanter, the UK's pre-eminent wine publication. For $50, you can get them a subscription to a magazine that will give them a very different view on the world of wine. The current issue includes book reviews, an excerpt from Jay McInerney's Hedonist in the Cellar, Bourdeaux "outsiders," sparkling alternatives to champagne, a run-down of Argentinian reds, and a panel tasting of 2004 California Cabernet Sauvignons. This is a gift that shows that you were thinking outside the box when it came to gifts this year, and will give them a year's worth of reading pleasure. It will also give them the opportunity to say, "Well, Michael Broadbent thinks that ..." when at the next gathering of wine geeks.

For the Wine Lover Who Travels: If your wine lover travels a lot, lugging a stack of wine reading with them may not be the ideal thing. So what about a subscription to Jancis Robinson's Purple Pages? Robinson is hands down one of the best wine writers in the world, and she has embraced online media enthusiastically (all the while producing the latest edition of the Oxford Companion to Wine). For $139, your wine lover will get online access to all the information on Robinson's site--all her tasting notes, insider tips, access to what is described as "the most courteous wine forum on the web," and the Oxford Companion to Wine's 3rd edition. Every road warrior will appreciate being able to log in anywhere and get fresh articles and insights into wine every week.

You may want to also check my post from last year on gifts for wine lovers, which includes some additional tips, and my series of wine book reviews. Happy shopping, and happy gifting!

Classic Wine Advice

In 1935, Huey Long was assassinated in Louisiana, Fred Perry won Wimbledon, It Happened One Night won the Academy Awards for Best Picture, and the Nazis enacted the Nuremberg Laws against the Jews. Also in 1935 Miss Bridget Herbert got married, and to celebrate her nuptials Hilaire Belloc (1870-1953), the famous essayist and poet, penned a small book that contained classic advice on wine and housekeeping. Dipping into it in 2007 is a treat, and reminded me how much has changed in the world of wine, and how some things remain the same.

Like most wine lovers, Belloc was a man of strong opinions. The book opens: "Never warm Red wine. This deleterious practice is called by the vulgar 'taking the Chill off.'" Over the course of 37 pages Belloc discusses corkscrews, how to baptize wine, how to remove bad corks, where and how to buy wine, how to bottle it, and a score of other topics. He is a fan of white wine from Orvieto, and red wine from Burgundy. He likes his champagne with a bit of sweetness, and his white wines not to be served too cold. Nothing but sea salt touched his food, and his coffee-making standards were so high I imagine he never had a cup that satisfied him.

Reading Belloc's book of advice gives us a glimpse into a lost world of wine, where consumers tasted wine from merchant barrels before being bottled and where it was even conceivable that you might have a bottling operation in your own cellar (provided you could find 6 friends to help you and some garden trellis to temporarily hold the bottles). Belloc mentions long-dead wine merchants by name who he trusted to sell him the same wine in bottles that he had tasted from the barrel. He instructs Miss Herbert to stay in room 90 at the Hotel des Voyageurs in Nantes when she goes to visit his favorite wholesaler to buy French wine. And he put a lot of stock in the purchasing power of Mr. Heath who ran the wine department for the Army and Navy stores.

72 years on, it is hard to follow some of his advice ("never buy anything you have not tasted"), while some seems timeless and relevant ("divide your buying of wine into two clear departments 1) buying ordinary wine 2) buying special wine"). This mixture of past preoccupations and classic concerns is what makes this book so fascinating. In 1960, Belloc's friend Evelyn Waugh got permission to reprint the slim volume under the simple title Advice, and though it is out of print today you can still find copies (as I did) on Alibris for around $20. The book is beautifully bound, and printed in two inks (red and black) with reproductions of Belloc's original pen and ink sketches. If you need a gift for a wine lover (or for yourself) and enjoy taking a peek into the past, I highly recommend this book.

Picture This: Personalized Wine Bottles

If you're looking for a special gift to celebrate a birthday, anniversary, wedding, or other momentous occasion, look no further. Picture My Wine will generate a customized wine label, complete with the uploaded photo of your choice. I've looked at other personalized wine bottle offerings before and either the wine was terrible, the labels were cheesy, or you had to order a case. Not so with Picture My Wine.

Picture My Wine offers a selection of wines from either the Healdsburg Wine Company or Brutocao's cost-conscious Bliss bottlings. For me, the Bliss Merlot (winner of a double-gold medal from the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition) is a no-brainer at $15 and you don't have to order a case or a 1/2 case to get your personalized bottle. Even single bottle orders are filled, making them great gifts for someone special. But imagine giving someone with a new house six bottles of "house wine" in personalized bottles? Pretty nice gift.

I had a little trouble getting the interface to work for the merlot label with the images on my computer. But I did generate a snazzy, classy label using a medieval image and the "Vertical Black" Label option. Most folks use personal photos, because they're buying for birthdays, weddings, or anniversaries, but nearly any image will do. (make sure you're using an image properly and not infringing on copyright, ok?)

All it takes is a nice image and a little forethought to get your wine in time. Orders ship three days after they are placed, and it takes a further 3-7 days to receive the wine depending on where you live and whether you pay for express shipping.

History in a Glass

Gourmet magazine debuted in the 1940s at a time when, thanks to two world wars and prohibition, America was a virtually wine-free country. Grape vines that had been lovingly tended for centuries had been ripped up, and we lost our "everyday wine" culture.

Reading History in a Glass, a fabulous collection of stories drawn from Gourmet magazine's monthly wine columns by editor Ruth Reichl, is like watching the History Channel for wine. (Amazon.com, $18.21) Filled with writing from some of the best wine and food writers who have ever put pen to paper--Frank Schoonmaker, James Beard, and Hugh Johnson to name just a few--this book gives you an inspiring look at the resilience of the American wine industry, at its success at coming back after almost total extinction, and at the growth of US appreciation for wine.

It's hard to pick a favorite story from among those included, but I think mine is Everett Wood's 1957 "The Last Kellermeister." Heinrich Allinger was the cellar-master of Schloss Johannisberg, a famous winery on the Rhine. Only three years of his life were spent outside the village where he lived, all fighting in World War I. When his employer tried to give him a three-week vacation in 1950, Herr Allinger refused to go. He knew every barrel in the cellar, and talked to them like children, chiding one for not developing as he'd expected it to, praising another for surprising finesse. A lifetime of wine knowledge was in that man, and Wood's fluid writing makes it possible for us to get a sense of him, and the information that he had accumulated over the years.

There are lovely surprises on every page of Reichl's collection--Hillaire Belloc's advice on wine manages to be both timeless and dated, Schoonmaker's 1948 survey of northern California wineries is a revelation in terms of the diversity of grapes planted and the wine fashions of the time, and Gerald Asher's 1993 story on Oregon Pinot Noirs was one of the first to catch the rising quality of that region's wine. It's been a while since I reviewed a wine book, and while I mentioned this book in my holiday gift picks for wine lovers, I wanted to give a fuller idea of why I think this book is so great. It's a book to have on the bedside table, to read a story before dropping off to sleep with visions of grape vines dancing in your head.

What Are You Getting Your Favorite Oenophile?

With Hanukkah in full swing and Christmas coming at the weekend, many of us are looking for last-minute gifts. It seemed like the right moment to put up a few suggestions of gifts for wine lovers that they can't drink. Most of these (like most of the wine I review) are under $20, and I've linked each to an online site that (as of yesterday) had the items in stock. Of course, you may find something similar in a local shop and save yourself the shipping costs. Then again, you can just click on over and save yourself the driving aggravation!

I've broken these gifts into categories, but those shouldn't be seen as restrictive in any way--they were just a way to bring some organization into what would otherwise have been a simple list. You can check out my earlier recommendations for gifts for wine lovers by clicking here.

For the beginning wine lover:

Andrea Immer Robinson's Great Wine Made Simple: Straight Talk from a Master Sommelier, from Amazon.com ($18.95). This was the book that got me started, and though a relative oldie, it's still a goodie. Great on varietal characteristics, old/new world taste comparisons, and food-pairing advice.

For the practical wine lover:

These may not scream romance, but they're gifts that any wine-lover will appreciate and use daily. Much better than buying them more wine glasses, or a bottle of wine they may not like. These washing-up products are available from IWA and many other retailers. The brushes are specially shaped to clean stemware and decanters, and the stemware racks help you avoid the problem of opening the dishwasher only to find that your beautiful glasses are now beautiful, stemless glasses.

Crystal Washing Brushes from IWA ($19.95)

Stem Savers from IWA ($18.95)

For the wine lover who entertains:

Dinner Party Journal from Gifts for Professionals ($27.95)

Evan Goldstein's Perfect Pairings: A Master Sommelier's Practical Advice for Pairing Wine with Food from Amazon.com ($19.77)

Both of these gifts are ideal for master entertainers. The journal has plenty of space to record menus, guestlists, seating plans, and of course wines served. (you'll have to go to the site to enlarge it--clicking on it here won't do any good!) Goldstein's book is the best I've seen at not only telling you which wine goes with which food, but also why the pairing works. Highly recommended.

For wine lovers who collect wines, or for red wine lovers who decant wines:

I don't do much decanting, but I probably should. I have a beautiful decanter I received as a gift, and one of my resolutions for 2007 is to decant my red wines more regularly. I found some nice, everyday decanters made from the prestigious Riedel firm over at The Wine Enthusiast, along with some stylish decanter stoppers. The stoppers would also be an excellent gift for klutzes like me who have broken every stopper they ever possessed.

Spherical Glass Decanter Stoppers from The Wine Enthusiast (set of 2, $24.95)

Riedel Merlot Decanter from The Wine Enthusiast (on sale, $18.95)

For wine lovers who also love gadgets:

Most of us serve our white wines too cold and our reds too warm. This nifty gadget (there is a pricier one with a key ring attachment, though it scares me to think of people whipping these out of their pockets at restaurants and parties), enables you to check the temperature of wine inside the bottle before you pour it. A gadget, but one that you might conceivably use!

VinTemp Infrared Wine Thermometer from IWA ($24.95)

For crafty wine lovers:

I have mountains of corks that I can't part with. They sit in bowls, roll around in drawers, and are a complete nuisance. This kit provides you with all you need to turn the mess into something you can use. They also have larger format trays and bulletin boards, but I think the trivet is less overwhelming!

Wine Cork Trivet Kit from The Wine Enthusiast ($19.95)


For wine lovers who love to read:

Ruch Reichl's History in a Glass: Sixty Years of Wine Writing from Gourmet from Amazon.com ($17.71)

Jay McInerney's A Hedonist in the Cellar: Adventures in Wine from Amazon.com ($16.32)

There are lots of wine reference books out there that convey information like what to buy, what to eat with what you drink, and what to collect. These books aren't like that--they are meant for reading. Beautifully written and fascinating, they collect essays on wine experiences that will transport you into private cellars and public tastings. They are also recently released, and may not be on your favorite oenophile's shelf yet.

For wine lovers who are physically fit and/or mow lawns:

The Wine Aroma Wheel T-Shirt from the UCDavis Bookstore ($19.95) comes proudly emblazoned with Ann C. Noble's trademark aroma wheel. The aroma wheels are sold out at the moment, or they would have gone on this list, too. But here's a gift that says "I'm a wine lover."

Happy shopping! And if you have any further suggestions please leave them in a comment.

Wine Report 2007

If you haven't heard of this book you aren't alone. I've never heard of it either, but it's won all kinds of awards. And if you are seriously interested in wine and like finding different, unusual bottlings I think there is no better book you could get yourself (or, since the holidays are coming, put on your wish list) than this little volume of research and analysis.

Tom Stevenson's Wine Report (DK Publishing, $15) offers a refreshing overview of the world of wine that will shake up what you think you know about wine's big picture. The reason? This is a European publication, written by a team of about 40 writers, including many Masters of Wine. And it is a yearbook, designed to give you an overview of the past year's news and developments. You get pieces on Burgundy by the respected writer Clive Coates, on wine and the internet by Tom Cannavan, and on California wines by Dan Berger. Besides serving as the general editor,Stevenson is particularly known for his knowledge of champagnes which he writes about in this volume. He also contributes to Tom Cannavan's Wine Pages (Stevenson's columns can be read by clicking here).

The book is organized by region, with sections devoted to Bordeaux, Portugal, the Pacific Northwest and other major viticultural areas. Each region is covered in about 5 pages--the perfect length for when you're drinking your morning coffee, or sipping a glass of Alsatian wine before dinner, and need some light reading. You wouldn't want to read the book cover to cover, but if you handle it like a magazine you're on the right track. Each region has an overview, an opinion piece, vintage reports, and a series of top ten lists covering the best producers, the up-and-coming producers, rapidly improving producers, the best value producers, the greatest quality wines, the best bargains, and the most exciting wines.

Some idea of the different approach you will get from this annual can be seen in Dan Berger's treament of California. Following his opinion piece on misleading labeling, we have his greatest wine producers. The top three are: Joseph Phelps, Stag's Leap--and Navarro. I think Navarro wines are the unsung heroes of California wine, but when do you see big write-ups on them? And you pretty much have to buy their wines direct from the vineyard because you aren't likely to find them in your supermarket (though they can sometimes be had at Whole Foods).

Among the up-and-coming producers? Campion, Shannon Ridge, and Katherine Hall. Best value producers include Bogle, McManis, and Canyon Road. I've got wines from some of these makers in my wineracks, and will certainly keep my eye out for those I'm less familiar with.

Among the greatest quality wines in Berger's piece? the 2002 Phelps Insignia ($145), Navarro's 2004 Gewurztraminer from the Anderson Valley ($14), and Dutton Goldfield's 2003 Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley's Sanchietti Vineyard ($52). How's that for range!

Best bargains include the Navarro 2004 Edelzwicker ($11), the Bonny Doon 2004 Pacific Rim Riesling ($9), and the Dry Creek 2005 Chenin Blanc ($13).

And unlike any other wine guide I've seen this year, their "most exciting finds" actually sound exciting: the 2004 Chasselas Dore Berthoud ($15), the 2004 Milat Chenin Blanc ($18), and the 2001 Heitz Grignolino ($14.25). Plus, these are exciting wines you can actually afford--how refreshing! At the back of the guide the contributors had to be ruthless in selecting just a few wines from each region to include in the 100 Most Exciting Wine Finds. These are accompanied by detailed tasting notes.

Like any annual guide, this one is meant to be read, acted on before the wines sell out, and then tossed to make room for next year's guide. But this one has more meat in it than most, and its take on wine--which seems to this reader to differ considerably from the wine magazines and to correspond much more closely with what you see in wine blogs--makes for interesting reading. With surprising twists and turns and hidden zingers in nearly every list, it is a wine book that I heartily recommend.

Everything from abboccato to zymase: the new Oxford Companion to Wine

Not even the most ardent wine lover can learn all they need to know about wine simply from drinking it. The new 2006 edition of The Oxford Companion to Wine, edited by Jancis Robinson, is the resource to take your knowledge of wine to the next level, without taking a sip.

The first page alone is an indication of the range of resources and wonderful riches you will find on all 813 pages. You learn about Spanish and Italian terms for medium sweet wines, the slogan ABC, a wine region on the Canary Islands, a rare French varietal, the Abruzzo, a hormone that regulates vine growth, and an Arab/Persian poet of the 9th century known for his verses on wine. And that's just the first page. All entries are arranged alphabetically, in classic encyclopedic style, which makes it easy to find whatever you are looking for. There is also excellent cross-referencing, so one entry leads to another and pretty soon half an hour has sped by!

I was especially struck by how Robinson and her team of writers managed to balance out the very latest DNA research with a deep knowledge and appreciation for wine history. One of my favorite entries was "Fashion" that explained how wine tastes evolved through the centuries, from the Ancient Roman preference for sweet, old wine to today's vogue for what they referred to as wines with "physiological ripeness" and high alcohol levels. Geographically, though there is a definite focus on the classic wine regions, there are also references to wine-growing all around the globe. And yes, there is an article on wine-writing that mentions the influence of the web.

You may not want to sit down and read the book from cover to cover--for one thing it's too heavy to hold for more than a few minutes!--but the writing is so clear and accessible that you could if you wanted to and had the arm strength. Most of us, though, will put it on the shelf and pull it off again and again to look up a varietal, find out exactly where Brouilly is, or actually come to grips with the chemistry of fermentation.

With the holidays coming, this would make a great gift for wine lovers or something to buy yourself to help you recover from all the parties. Even though this is a book, it still is excellent QPR.