World Turned Upside Down? Time to Catch Up

Where did last month go? I don't know about you, but I'm totally upside down with work, work, family, and more work. (photo by Capture Queen)

Hope you are all fully recovered from the festivities of the Thanksgiving season. Lots of you were anxious about wine right up to the day before the Big Dinner, and I hope that you enjoyed whatever you picked. If you want to spy on what others popped and poured, it's always fun to stop by CellarTracker and see what the members there drank on the day. Looks like Pinot Noir was once again the winner among red wines, and Chardonnay was on top among whites.

Over the past few weeks I've been doing a bit of this and a bit of that, wine wise. Some of what I've done doesn't lend itself too well to GWU$20--I've been drinking bottles I've purchased in wine clubs or stores that cost more than $20. I've had some great wine--like the NV Cedric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Brut Inflorescence Val Vilaine (domaineLA, $61.99) which was a stunning example of Champagne. I loved its beautiful balance, the fine bead, and the delicate, clean flavors of pear and brioche. I also popped the cork on my 2006 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Stiling Vineyard ($32.75 from the wine club; available online for $29-$50)I tasted it from a barrel sample in summer of 2007, and it was still a bit young to drink even now. It deserves a few more years in the bottle to further integrate its blackberry, clove, black tea, and vanilla flavors and aromas.

I've also been pulling wines out of the cellar that I purchased some time ago, like the bottle of Cameron Hughes Lot 38 Shiraz from the Barossa Valley. I got it from the winery in the summer of 2007 for $20, and it's still drinking beautifully, exhibiting aromas and flavors of cherry and baker's chocolate. There is less cedar now than when I opened my first bottle in March 2008, but additional fruit notes (blackberry, mostly) have emerged. Another summer of 2007 purchase that I opened this month was the 2005 Handley Gianoli Ranch Zinfandel ($21.40, winery; 2007 vintage now available for $25). It was even better now than it was when I tasted and purchased the wine, with delicious layers of black raspberry and boysenberry notes in the aromas and flavors. There was a peppery spice that played counterpoint to a candied apple note in the midpalate, both of which kept the wine lively and fresh tasting, as did the cool, menthol notes in the finish. Both bottles were nice reminders that cellaring wine--even relatively inexpensive wine--can be a sound investment in terms of taste.

A few exciting new bottles have made an impression on me, too. Chief among them was the 2008 Ludwig Winery Dry Gewürztraminer Dry Single Vineyard Selection from Monterey County (domaineLA, $14) It's been a while since I've been truly excited by a Gewurztraminer, so I'm thrilled with the excellent QPR on this bottle. Layered aromas and flavors of mango, peach, white flowers, and a bit of vanilla bean gift a lift of clementine and apple in the midpalate. It was excellent with spicy Asian food. And I was delighted by the 2008 Mustilli Piedirosso Sannio (sample from Domenico Selections; contact importer for more information)--and reminded how much I love this grape from Campania. The pure, clear Bing cherry notes in the aromas and palate had herbal and floral notes flitting around the edges. Relatively light in body, it's sure to appeal to fans of Gamay and Sangiovese--and it's perfect with spaghetti and meatballs!

Full Disclosure: with the exception of the Mustilli bottle, which was a sample, I purchased all of the bottles described here.

The Red-Footed Grape from Campania

Some Italian reds stomp onto the stage with heavy boots and demand your attention. Others slip in on little, red feet and steal your heart away.

Piedirosso fits into the second category. It's an exciting red grape variety from Campania, the region that is home to Naples and the Amalfi coast. And it is yet another surprise--in a string of surprises--that have come my way since setting out to explore the wines of Italy.

The 2005 La Sibilla Piedirosso is made from grapes grown in the volcanic soils of the Campi Flegrei appellation. ($14.99, K & L Wines) Campi Flegrei has bragging rights to claim it is the home of the ancient god of fire, Vulcan. It is also a region that has preserved some of Campania's wine heritage, in the form of plantings of the white variety Falanghina, and the red variety Piedirosso. Phylloxera devastated the grape stock by the early 20th century, but today the Piedirosso grape (which is named for the striking red stems that connect each grape to the cluster and some say look like the feet of doves) is making something of a comeback.

When you pour it, it has a striking clear garnet color, which is very clear and bright. Startling aromas of bacon fat and smoke make the first impression, and you can reach for some high-toned black cherry fruit aromas underneath. There is a silkiness on the palate, accompanying flavors of leather, black cherry, tar, and earth. Some will find this a bit bretty and barnyardy, but I liked the funkiness and thought it in no way overpowered the wine's fruity complexity. Given all this wine delivers in the flavor department, I'd say this is excellent QPR.

With your Piedirosso, I'd try a fresh and post-modern take on good old eggplant parmesan. Toss some farfalle pasta with sauteed eggplant, cherry tomatoes, basil, garlic, parmesan, and fresh ricotta. Eggplant is common in the traditional food of Campania, but this recipe is a little less labor-intensive to pull together and put on the table at the end of a long day at work than many of the time-tested alternatives. The bitterness of the eggplant is a nice counterpoint to the juicy black cherry fruit, and the smokiness of the wine picks up the smoky notes that emerge from a nicely caramelized eggplant, too.

As with any unfamiliar grape, it can be useful to know a more familiar grape variety reminiscent of the Piedirosso's flavors, aromas, and textures. To me, this is like a Burgundian Pinot Noir, and I think this is an Italian red that will appeal to Burgundy fans. In a time of the dipping dollar, it's good to have a backup. My guess is they may not realize they are drinking an Italian wine at all, if you don't tell them.