A Candidate for Your House White: d'Arenberg's The Stump Jump

Last week I was extolling the virtues of red blends. After I wrote the post, I realized that though there were many red blends in my cellar, there weren't many white blends. I'm not sure why that's the case, because what goes for reds is true of whites as well: the blending can make the wine especially food friendly and versatile. And, just as with red blends, there is often a very attractive price tag on a white blend.

So I looked in the closet to see if I had any white blends and discovered a bottle of the 2009 d'Arenberg The Stump Jump (suggested retail $10; available for $9-$13) This is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Marsanne, and Riesling. As with most good blends, you can identify the individual components in the finished product. In this case, the Sauvignon Blanc is evident in the aroma which is very grassy, and that grassiness is accompanied by touches of honey from the Marsanne. The flavors have notes of pear, grapefruit pith, and a bit of litchi--so there's more Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling influence there. The mouthfeel is heavier than some whites, thanks largely to the Marsanne. The aftertaste reminded me of a dry Riesling, with its acidity and apple notes. I would have liked the wine to be a bit more fruit-forward--which is not something I say often. Even so, this wine is a good candidate for a house white because of its versatility and very good QPR. I looked over my notes from previous vintages, too, and this wine has consistently been good all the way back to 2004, which is another reason to try a bottle if you see one in the store, irrespective of its vintage.

Proof of the wine's versatility can be had by pairing it with something like this Soba Noodle Salad with Salmon and Asparagus from Bon Appetit magazine. With the rich salmon and avocado, the grassy asparagus, and the ginger-soy dressing, it's a bit of a challenge--but this wine handled it beautifully. The Sauvignon Blanc worked well with the asparagus, the Riesling with the Asian flavors, and the Marsanne stood up to the buckwheat and salmon.

Full Disclosure: I received a sample of this wine for review.

Keeping It Light with a German Riesling

This week's posts are dedicated to making the hectic transition into fall. For those of us who are teachers, or have kids, this marks the beginning of the academic year with all the running around and organization that requires. So my mantra right now is: keep things simple, keep things light. I covered simple on Monday. Today I turn to something light. In the wine department, nothing says "light" to me like a bright refreshing Riesling.

The 2009 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Riesling Kabinett Baron K' (available for $13-$18) is epitomizes the light, enjoyable charms of the grape. This is not a dry wine, but instead has a decidedly sweet edge to the flavors, with rich peach and apple notes. When you take a sniff, you may get a whiff of honey and when you sip it a bit of stoniness flirts with all those rich orchard fruits. Good QPR.

This wine is ideal for pairing with spicy foods--the spicier the better!--which can be a real treat in these late summer days. We paired the wine with an absolutely delicious plate of shrimp that had been soaking in a coconut-lemongrass marinade for four hours and then popped on the grill. The marinade's rich coconut and spicy Fresno pepper flavors were a perfect counterpoint to the wine's sweetness, while the lemongrass and lime juice added some welcome acidity to the wine's flavors. (This marinade would be terrific on firm, white fish like halibut, too).

Full Disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

The Great Australian Riesling Roundup

Time for a roundup of Rieslings to put some zip into your summer. When July turns into August, I always start hankering for some boiled spicy shrimp or a garlic and lemon marinated chicken to break up the BBQ sauce, hot dogs, and steaks that many of us have been indulging in since Memorial Day. If this is how you are feeling, there's nothing better to pair with these lively, vibrant summer alternatives than Riesling. And Australian Rieslings seem ideally suited to the warm temperatures and outdoor dining that dominate this part of the year.

Here are my recommendations, culled from Australian Rieslings I've enjoyed lately:

The 2008 Plantagenet Riesling is a very dry wine with aromas of petrol, lemon pith, and apple peel. (suggested retail $20; available for $13-$21) The flavors are a bit rounder--more like Granny Smith apples and litchi--but they remain dry. Excellent with seafood. Very good QPR, for this classically tasty wine.

Despite its name, 2009 Frisk Riesling "Prickly" isn't prickly at all. (suggested retail $10; available for $9-$13) Instead, it's a simple Riesling with a touch of spritz and lively, slightly sweet apple flavors. Far less dry than either of the bottles here, this would be a good pick for sipping on the back patio with some hors d'oeuvres or for pairing with very spicy food. Very good QPR.

With the 2008 d'Arenberg Riesling The Dry Dam we're back to a wine that is dry and elegant, with similar petroleum and green apple aromas. (suggested retail $16; available from $9-$18)The flavors are dominated by green apple this time, and more petroleum sneaks in to the aftertaste. Nice for the price, and widely available. Very good QPR.

Full Disclosure: I received these bottles as samples.

Putting Some Sparkle in the End of the Week

Sparkling wine is one of life's greatest pleasures. Regular readers know how fond I am of wine with bubbles in it, and I'm always on the lookout for new ways to bring some into the house without breaking the bank.

So when Jill at domaineLA mentioned she had a new sparkling Riesling on the shelves, I decided to give it a try.

The 2008 Reichsrat Von Buhl Riesling Brut [Sekt] is a dry wine with piercing apple aromas and hints of petroleum around the edges which is characteristic of Rieslings from this part of the world. Abundant yet fine bead gives the wine a nice texture that is lively without being harsh or raspy. You will find flavors of yeast, bread dough, and apple as you sip and the aftertaste left in your mouth will draw you back for more. A fun sparkler for $25, with lots of class and very good QPR.

I think you could easily open this bottle when you are tempted to splurge on a French champagne, given its classic flavor profile.

A Summery Sparkler from Ca'Momi

No matter how much wine you drink, nobody knows everything.

Recently, I've been sampling some wine from Ca'Momi Wines. Located in the pricey Napa Valley, this is a winery that makes some extraordinarily affordable and delicious wines. Put it on your list of small producers to watch for and ask your favorite retailer to get some of their wine in stock.

A wine that I was particularly taken with was the NV Ca' Momi Ca' Secco ($16.99) This was summer in a bottle, with aromas and flavors of Meyer lemon and tangerine. The overall impression was round and fruity, but it was also quite refreshing with a medium-sized bubble to keep everything lively and light. The aftertaste was dry, as you might expect from a blended sparkler made with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Muscat. Very good QPR.

Because of all the citrusy elements in the wine, it would be an ideal choice for summer brunch, or for a lazy afternoon watching the sun go down.

Full Disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

Summer's Go-with-Everything White: The Stump Jump

Is there a summer white that goes with nearly everything? With the exception of steak and hamburgers (and maybe even with these, if it's your fancy), the answer is yes.

The 2008 d'Arenberg The Stump Jump is summer's equivalent (in wine terms) of the little black dress. Made from a blend of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Roussanne, and Marsanne the wine has a clean, slightly off-dry flavor profile of apples, pink grapefruit, melon, and hay. I found it surprisingly complex for a wine that retails for a little over $10 (and which you may find at a store near you for between $8 and $11). Excellent QPR.

Soft and appealing, The Stump Jump is an ideal candidate for most summer foods including spicy dishes that you stir fry in a flash, appetizers passed on the back deck or by the pool, light bites when it's too hot to eat, and grilled fish and chicken.

Full Disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

Buyer Warning: There is a red version of The Stump Jump, so if you're looking for the white wine, be sure you specify.

I Have Seen the Future of Wine--And It's Alsace

As someone who focuses on wine values, I've always got my eye out for wine regions that produce excellent wines at affordable prices. Sometimes they're up-and-coming new wine regions. Sometimes, however, I "discover" a wine region that is steeped in tradition but which, for some reason, seems to be flying under the radar of press and consumers. In both cases I feel like I've seen a glimpse of the future, and that it's only a matter of time before more people catch on and start seeking out the region's wines.

I recently caught just such a glimpse of the future when I was invited to taste wines from the northern Alsace made under the Helfrich label. That's Frederic Helfrich to the right, who works with winemaker Benoit Pattin to craft wines that are true to the region's style and aren't manipulated to taste like wines from somewhere else.

As "discoveries" go, this qualifies as one that was just sitting under my nose. They've been growing grapes--mainly white wine grapes--in the Alsace for at least two thousand years along a stretch of French countryside between the Vosges Mountains and the Rhine River that has swapped allegiances a number of times. In some areas, German is spoken. In other areas, French is the native tongue. What this means is that Alsace wines blend tradition, innovation, and diversity. They also taste great, and are extremely affordable given the quality of what's produced.

I am a huge fan of Riesling and Gewürztraminer, which makes up about 40% of the grapes grown in the Alsace. Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir are also well-represented, and thrive in the region's soil and climate. The region has three AOCs (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée): Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru and Crémant d'Alsace. Well known winemakers from the region include Trimbach, Hugel & Fils, and Domaine Zind-Humbrecht.

But it's worth seeking out wines made by less familiar names. The region is home to hundreds of producers who are making wines with plenty of personality that have an attractive price tag. Helfrich's wines, for example, come in two price tiers: an entry level wine that is $14.99 (and drinks like a $30 wine) and a Grand Cru series that retails for $24.99 (while tasting like a $50 wine).

Here were a few standouts from my tasting. Alsatian wines are perfect for summer--refreshing, aromatic, and flavorful--but I can imagine many other occasions when they would be great to have on hand, such as Thanksgiving, Easter, with clam chowder in January, and with the first picnic in April to name just a few.

2007 Helfrich Riesling (AOC Alsace, $14.99; available for $9-$17). As this crisp wine opens in the glass, it reveals aromas of apple and then peach. These continue on into the flavors, where they remain barely 0ff-dry with plenty of stony, mineral notes to keep the fruit in check. Rich withough being heavy, this is one of the nicest Rieslings I've had at this price point. Excellent QPR.

2007 Helfrich Pinot Gris (AOC Alsace, $14.99; available for $9-$17) Much richer than the Riesling, this Pinot Gris has aromas and flavors of smoke, grass, and apple with a mineral inflection in the finish. It will stand up to rich, fatty foods like foie gras and lobster. Another wine with unusual complexity and personality given its price. Excellent QPR.

2005 Helfrich Gewürztraminer Grand Cru (AOC Alsace Grand Cru, $24.99; available for $14-$23) This stunning, age-worthy wine comes from the Steinklotz Vineyard. It's honey and rose aromas lead you into a wine with lychee and apple flavors and a deliciously spicy aftertaste that is true to the grape and seldom in evidence in modern Gewürztraminers. Excellent QPR on a Grand Cru wine with real style and class. (And if you get a crack at the 2008 vintage, buy it. It is very young now but it will be stunning when it settles down.)

Get to know the Alsace and its wine. They're the future.

Summery Riesling

Summery food and warmer temperatures seem to cry out for an equally summery wine.

In my book, there's nothing quite so summery as Riesling. Is it because many smell of peaches and honey? Perhaps. Is it because they pair so well with the spicy food that makes you sweat? Quite possibly. Or is it because their lower alcohol levels mean that they are refreshing? The answer, I suspect, is all three.

If you are are in the market for a Riesling as the mercury rises, the 2008 Estancia Riesling is a very good QPR from California's Central Coast. ($15 suggested retail; available online for under $15) There were summery aromas of apple, peach, and white flowers with the tiniest whiff of a mineral note. The flavors are very peachy, like biting into the ripest summer fruit, but there is plenty of acidity to keep it all in balance. The wine is off-dry, which will make it perfect for Thai, Vietnamese, or spicy Chinese food. Or chill down a bottle to go with some spicy peel and eat shrimp or some Sushi.

Full Disclosure: I received this wine as a sample.

Riesling from Washington State's Columbia Valley

This year, one of my goals is to learn more about Washington wine. I'm starting my journey this month, and decided to take my first steps with a white wine.

Washington may be better known for its Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots, but it makes white wine, too. The climate seems especially well-suited to Rhone varietals and Riesling. It's been a while since I had a Riesling, so I picked the latter.

The 2006 Long Shadows Poet's Leap Riesling was a very good QPR choice. ($20, Wild Walla Walla Wine Woman; available elsewhere for $17-$24) While higher in price than many domestic Rieslings, it has character and finesse. It comes from fruit grown in the Columbia Valley, which is Washington state's largest appellation. It includes within it six other smaller AVAs, and the most plentifully planted grapes are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chardonnay. Syrah and Riesling are also planted there in what qualifies (for Washington, anyway) as a "desert" climate of less rain and damp maritime influence.

This excellent domestic Riesling had aromas of seaspray, apples, peaches, and a hint of petrol--kind of like driving through an oceanside fruit orchard in a beat-up pickup truck. There was a slight spritz on the palate, along with flavors of melon, peach, and apple. The wine's aftertaste was juicy and a touch off-dry. This wine receives consistently high reviews from wine critics, and sells out quickly (both the 2007 and 2006 bottles are already sold out at the winery) so if you see some, nab it.

An aromatic, fruity, and flavorful wine such as this one is perfect with spicy Asian food. I made a doubtless inauthentic but extremely good stirfry of chicken, Chinese eggplant, oyster sauce, chiles, onion, garlic, and basil and it was delicious with the wine. The bottle's slight sweetness meant there was no acidic clash between the spices in the food and the fruitiness of the wine.

I'm off to a good start with my Washington wine lessons. Next month--a red.

Recession-Proof White Wines

This time of year, people are looking for bargains to help them get through the holidays with a little spare cash in their pockets. Now, more than ever, most of us are cutting corners given the tough economy.

Today I've got three recommendations for recession-proof white wines that will leave some extra change in your pocket without leaving you feeling deprived. Each one is widely available, and each one retails for under $10 in most markets.

My first recommendation is the excellent QPR 2007 Robert Mondavi Riesling Private Selection. Made from Monterey County fruit, this is a fresh, off-dry Riesling. Aromas of apple, litchi, and honey are the preamble for flavors that include apple, lime zest, and peach. It has a long, juicy aftertaste and more complexity than many domestic Rieslings at this price point. And, best of all, it's not too sweet so it will go nicely with Asian cuisine. (I received this wine as a sample. Suggested retail price is $10, and you will find it selling for between $7 and $14 at retailers throughout the country. Please note: this wine used to be called "Johannisburg Riesling," and you may still see it advertised as such.)

My second recommendation is the very good QPR 2007 Mandolin Chardonnay. Inexpensive Chardonnays are often too sweet and have a clumsy use of oak. This wine is more sophisticated than most at this price point, with buttered pear and apple aromas. These are echoed in the flavors, with a bit of vanilla and oak in the aftertaste. This wine is nicely balanced, and is as good with food as without. (I received this wine as a sample. Suggested retail price is $10.)

Finally, everyone needs some sparkle over the holidays. The excellent QPR NV Freixenet Cava Cordon Negro Brut fills the bill perfectly. This sparkler is nutty, frothy, and citrusy. Unlike some inexpensive sparklers, there is not a harsh or unpleasant note to mar your experience. Definitely a bargain, and it's good enough that you don't have to mix it with orange juice to enjoy it. It will be perfect with appetizers or just sipping with friends before a holiday dinner or party. (I received this wine as a sample. Average retail price is under $10, and you can find it at most retailers for between $7 and $15)

I wish pinching pennies always tasted this good.

Washington State Riesling to the Rescue

It's hot. I'm hot. I'm tired. I'm overworked. I'm eating lots of takeout.

Riesling to the rescue.

There is no joy so profound as I experience back to school, Labor Day, and the looming need to buy fall clothes as a cool bottle of Riesling waiting for me in the fridge when I pull into the driveway after a long day of work with a few cartons of Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, or Japanese food sitting on the passenger seat next to me. Riesling is the perfect match for Asian food, and because you can store it in the fridge it's always ready when you need it (just let it warm up for 10-15 minutes before your drink it or you'll miss out on Riesling's extraordinary aromas).

Because I love its low alcohol zinginess and Asian food-friendliness so much, I'm always on the lookout for new labels I haven't tried before. My latest discovery is the 2006 Mildbrandt Traditions Riesling from Washington. I purchased this for $12.49 in my local grocery store; you can find it near you for between $10 and $15. It was pale in color which suggested cool, clear water. The aromas and flavors ran the spectrum of citrus and flowers from orange blossom, to Meyer lemon, to lemon peel. There was a nice, juicy finish that kept you reaching for more to sip along with your ever-diminishing pile of pad thai. This wine also had a relatively low alcohol level for a domestic white at only 12.5%, which is good news when it's so hot outside.

What I loved most about this wine was that it was slightly off-dry but still restrained and balanced. Oh, and I loved its pricepoint, too. This certainly qualifies as a wine with excellent QPR, given its clear, refreshing citrus and floral flavors. It may not be as complex as a German Riesling, but it will combine with your takeout beautifully. So if you see this in your local store buy several bottles, leave them in the fridge, and the next time you're running late and General Tso is your dinner date you'll have one less thing to worry about.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #45: Old World Riesling

It's time again for Wine Blogging Wednesday, the online tasting event started by Lenn Thompson of Lenndevours. This month, Wine Blogging Wednesday is hosted by Tim Elliott of Winecast, and his theme is Old World Riesling. Rieslings are great summer wines, with their fresh flavors and typically low alcohol levels, so I have been looking forward to this month's theme for a while now.

The wine that I picked--the 2006 Max Ferd. Richter "Zeppelin"Riesling--certainly qualifies as an "Old World" Riesling. This label has loads of fascinating history behind it. First, Weingut Max Ferd. Richter has been operated by the family for the past three centuries. Second (I love this part), Rieslings from the Mülheimer Sonnenlay vineyard where the grapes for this wine were grown was the wine most often poured on Zeppelin flights during the 1920s and 1930s. That's why even now the bottle has a glorious Art Deco image of a Zeppelin on it. I don't think you can get much more "Old World" than that!

The 2006 Weingut Max Ferd. Richter "Zeppelin" Riesling was one of the better lower-price German Rieslings I had lately. ($14.99, domaine547; it looks like they've got the 2007 in stock now) This Riesling was one giant lime fest. There were aromas of apple, honey and lime zest, which were as enticing as the bright golden color. Flavors of fresh squeezed lime juice and lime zest kept it tangy and lively in your mouth. A tiny bit of stoniness in the back of your throat during the finish kept the wine interesting down to the very last drop. Very good QPR.

Like most Rieslings, this was a very drinkable and food-friendly wine that would be best with spicy food or grilled sausages--something with lots of flavor. We had it with an amazing chicken salad that combined honey-mustard dressing with mangoes, cucumbers, red pepper, and greens. The salad had great synergy with the wine. The dressing was made with lime juice and honey mustard which brought out all the lime flavors and aromas. And the honeyed aromas in the wine turned into mango-like flavors you sipped it after a bite of salad. This was a terrific pairing, and really showed you the power of the perfect wine and food pairing.

Thanks to founder Lenn, our host Tim, and to all of the participants who make this a great event every month. See you back here in June when I'll be your host. Stay tuned for an announcement of the theme following Tim's roundup.

Another Great Oregon Riesling

A few months ago, Jeff from Good Grape pulled together a blogger's 3-pack of Oregon wines with domaine547. Jeff promised us a trip to Alsace via Oregon with every sip of these wines. I just opened up my second bottle from the pack, and I think he's delivered so far. The two wines that I've had were both excellent , with distinctive flavors and an attractive price point.

The bottle I'm going to focus on today is the one in the far right of the picture: the 2005 Amity Riesling. (purchased as part of a 3-pack from domaine547 for $52.99; the winery is now sold out) Made in the Willamette Valley by Myron Redford, just 100 cases of this beauty were produced. There were pronounced floral, honeysuckle, and orange blossom aromas in this wine that suggested it would be decidedly off-dry when I sipped it. But the wine tasted drier than it smelled, with flavors of lemons and slate. There was a honeyed note in the finish, and a bit of a petrol aftertaste, which kept the wine interesting and engaging. I think it would be hard to find such a well-balanced, complex domestic Riesling for under $20--which this was--so this one earns excellent QPR.

This is the kind of wine that begs for spicier food. When you're eating something fiery, it's best to have a wine that's just a bit off-dry but not cloying. We had the Amity Riesling with a Goan Shrimp Curry from the cookbook American Masala by Suvir Suran. The recipe combined aromatic spices, coconut milk, shrimp, and peppers and the wine stood up to if nicely. (hint: if you can't find curry leaves near you, then you can use 2 bay leaves instead. It's not exactly the same, but it will do if you don't have a good Indian grocery nearby) The citrusy notes in the wine were particularly nice with the shrimp, and the floral flavors wafting up from the wine combined with the spices wafting up from the pot.

In a few weeks we'll be tasting Old World Rieslings for Wine Blogging Wednesday #45 with Tim Elliott of Winecast, and this wine definitely got me thinking ahead to that event. Rieslings are great food wines, they're lower in alcohol than most whites, and they are perfect for spring time, so go out and find yourself a Riesling. Even if you haven't liked them in the past, wines like this Amity Riesling are going to change your mind.

WBW #45: Old World Riesling

I'd hoped to have you a roundup of Wine Blogging Wednesday #44, which was hosted by Gary Vaynerchuk of Wine Library TV and dedicated to French Cabernet Franc. However, no one is exactly sure if there is even going to be a roundup.

So the host of Wine Blogging Wednesday #45, Tim Elliott of Winecast, decided to forge ahead announce May's theme. It's Old World Riesling, and Tim wants us to find a European Riesling--any style, any price point--and drink it before May 7. Then, post your impressions over at the Wine Blogging Wednesday site or on you own blog (if you have one). Full details are available on Winecast.

Rieslings are affordable, food-friendly wines that are often misunderstood and not fully appreciated. People often say "I don't like sweet wines," and therefore won't try Rieslings, but not all Rieslings are sweet. So go exploring and give them a try.

See you back here on May 7 for what promises to be a terrific WBW. Thanks as ever to Tim at Winecast for hosting the event, and Lenn of Lenndevours for dreaming it up in the first place.

Want the Jump on Future Wine Blogging Wednesdays?

Are you tired of running out to the store at the last minute for WBW selections? Do you sometimes wish you were drinking the same wine as someone else on WBW, so you could compare your notes to theirs? Have you always wanted to participate, but never been organized enough to do so?

Domaine547 comes to the rescue once again with their April-May-June WBW 3-pack of wines, which will get you sorted out in no time so that you can kick back and relax, secure in the knowledge that you have what you need to participate in the fun. At least until July.

For just under $45 (ok, $44.97) plus shipping you can get yourself set up with a French Cabernet Franc for April, a German Riesling for May, and a white blend from the Rhone. Pretty damn fantastic, especially if (like me) you never seem to have exactly what's called for when WBW is announced. (d547 budo-kan seeing vision of the WBW 3-pack)

Check out domaine547's site for details on vintage, makers, etc. Oh, and the shipping policies.

Cost of next three WBW bottles shipped to you from domaine547? under $45.
No last minute frantic searches in a wine store near you? priceless.

Taking the Riesling Shortcut to Alsace Via Oregon

When I bought the Good Grape blogger pack from domaine547 I was promised a trip to Alsace via Oregon. I got one! Even better, I discovered a winery I think I want to develop a lifetime relationship with--and it's a small producer I would never have heard of or had the chance to try in the normal course of buying and tasting wine in Southern California. So thank you to Jill and Jeff Lefevere of Good Grape for introducing me to Brooks Wines.

There is a heart-tugging story behind this winery, and it revolves around Pascal Brooks--who just may be the youngest winery owner in the US. Pascal was just 8 years old when the winery's ownership sadly passed to him after the death of his dad, Jimi. Friends and neighbors rallied to support the Brooks wine-making efforts to provide Pascal with a steady source of income and financial support. Since 2004 Pascal has had help making his wine, including the assistance of his aunt, Janie. They continue to bottle wine made from only organically- produced grapes, and to adopt biodynamic farming methods dedicated to sustainability. (photo of Brooks founder Jimi Brooks mixing biodynamic preparation for the vines, geolinkwine.com)

I got two Brooks wines in my blogger pack, and the first one I opened was the 2006 Brooks Riesling from the Willamette Valley (included in the domaine547 Good Grape Blogger pack of 3 Oregon wines for $52.99). This was an excellent QPR domestic riesling that (quite frankly) blew the highly touted Eroica of Chateau Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen out of the water. If you like that wine, and pay more than $20 for it, then treat yourself to a Brooks Riesling. There were complex aromas of lime, apple, Meyer lemon, petrol, and stone. I could have sniffed the wine all night without drinking any of it and kept myself happily busy. Flavors of lime, honey, slate, and even a hint of fresh red currants zinged in my mouth. I preserved the wine and left it overnight, and I think it should age nicely over the next 12-24 months, if you can wait that long.

With our Oregon Riesling we had a delicious pasta dish that used butternut squash and some zingy spices created by Mario Batali. It may seem odd to put Riesling with pasta and squash, but it was a dynamic pairing. The creaminess of the squash and pasta was nice with the silkiness of the wine, and the acidity of the Riesling cut through to the heart of the thyme, red onion, and red pepper that spiced the dish.

Brooks Wines are committed to making "exceptional wine at modest prices," and with this bottle they have succeeded and then some. Only 493 cases of this wine were produced, so get it while you can. And if you're in one of those states like Massachusetts that domaine547 can't ship to (and you know who you are!), check out Table & Vine in West Springfield. They have it, too.

Riesling Excitement

There are times when you drink a bottle of wine and you get excited about the whole idea of wine all over again. Everything fades away but this one glass of magical liquid, and it's better than any other wine you remember. And if you weren't expecting to be blown away by the wine, it makes it all the more sweet and exciting. This is one of those times.

The wine responsible for all this excitement is the 2006 Lazy Creek Vineyards Riesling from the Anderson Valley which is quite simply the best domestic riesling I have ever had. How good is it? It blows the Eroica riesling (from the partnership of Ernst Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle) out of the water, and that's a pretty darn good wine. And, should this matter to you, if you put it in a brown paper bag, no one would guess this was a US riesling.

Mary Beth and Josh Chandler are the new owners of the second oldest vineyard in the Anderson Valley, and they make this wine the organic way. The Chandlers do not have a tasting room so much as they have a vat house where tastings can happen, if you make it down the lane and over the bridge spanning the creek, past any horses that are coming along the same road, and into their front yard. My parents did just this a few weeks ago, and scored this bottle from the Chandlers' 2500 case production. Lazy Creek's web site is (still) under construction, but it does list a phone number in case you are interested in visiting or getting your hands on some of this great wine.

What made the Lazy Creek riesling so great? Oddly enough, it was about what this wine wasn't--it wasn't sweet, it wasn't overly fruity, it wasn't flabby, and it wasn't over the top. Instead, it had restrained aromas of apple, lemon blossom, and sea spray that seems to come from the nearby Pacific Ocean and gives it a mineral edge. When you sipped some it was bone dry, with flavors of dry, tart apple, citrus, and stone. It was made with grapes picked from old Anderson Valley Clone #49 riesling vines brought from Alsace, and the result was a super, elegant, and well-delineated riesling of exceptional value. It was also excellent QPR at about $24.

I couldn't find this wine online, and the Chandlers seem to sell most of their production to loyal mailing list fans. A selection of Lazy Creek wines is available at K&L Wines, however, and ranges from $17 - $40. I've had their pinot-based NV red table wine at a Slow Food dinner at Oz Farm in Point Arena a few years ago and it was terrific, as was their chardonnay and their gewurztraminer which is similarly dry and elegant.

Like their neighbors at Navarro, Lazy Creek Vineyards seems determined to stay small, make excellent wine, and sell most of their wine directly to their customers--all of which will keep me excited about their wines for years to come.

Holiday Food and Wine Strategy #3: Takeout

Holidays are full of traditions. Eggnog. Mistletoe. Dreidels. Latkes. Takeout.

Takeout is a tradition that goes back at least as far as ancient Rome. But during the holidays, there is no happier tradition in my opinion. To fully enjoy it, it's imperative that you stock up on specific kinds of wine and have them in the cabinet and waiting for your next needy moment. In my house, we don't like to spend more on the takeout wine than on the takeout itself--despite Dean & Deluca's latest and best efforts to get me to spend $395 on six bottles of wine because "nobody drinks fancy wine every day." Well, I think we can do a lot better than that, don't you? For far less than $395, here are some wines that go great with your takeout, and will leave you lots left of dosh left over for holiday shopping.

Riesling--This is what you need for incendiary takeout, such as hot Thai curries, vindaloo, and raging Szechuan cuisine. Go for something dry or off-dry for best results. There are lots made in the US and Australia that are not terribly expensive, or you can splurge slightly and get a bona fide German riesling kabinett like the 2005 Max Ferd. Richter Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett($16.95, Chronicle Wine Cellar; available elsewhere for between $15 and 27) It had full aromas of peach, peach blossom, and apple with a silky texture and flavors of apple, citrus, peach, and flowers that were distinctly off-dry.

Viognier--This is what you need for everything Asian that is not searingly hot, or spicy little chicken wings. If you like noodle bowls, pad thai, and mu shu, this is the wine to have on hand. Try the 2005 Domaine de Gournier Viognier, a producer recommended to me by Dr. Weingolb. (I got this as a sample from domaine547, and you can get it there for just $10.99). It was drier than most domestic viognier, with subdued citrus and apple aromas, and a predominantly apple palate.

Red Blends--These are vital for your pizza delivery nights, or for coming home to after driving through In-N-Out Burger. Blending several red varieties helps to keep the wine soft, affordable, and relatively inexpensive. There are lots of earlier reviews for red blends on the site, but we just enjoyed the 2004 Peterson "Zero Manipulation" red blend and highly recommend it for your house red this holiday season. ($12.49, WineQ) It is a carignane-based blend with additions of zinfandel and mourvedre, and it tastes a bit like an Italian red. High-toned red fruits (cranberry, pomegranate) are present in both the aromas and flavors. A bit of black raspberry is in there, too, if you reach for it. Nice acidity, not too much tannin--in short, a great food wine.

Lightly Oaked Chardonnay--Good with any bucket of fried chicken, or the rotisserie chickens from the supermarket, a lightly oaked chardonnay imparts enough richness to stand up to the bird, whether fried or roasted. One that we liked recently was the 2005 Egret Chardonnay. ($14.99, WineQ) This wine had rich aromas of vanilla and pear, with touches of white flowers. There were flavors of creme fraiche, apple, and pear with a touch of Mandarin orange at the very end. This was a creamy, slightly oaky chardonnay that paired well with food.

Sparklers--With everything else, from subs to salads, why not open an inexpensive sparkling wine? We had the NV Zonin Prosecco the other week, and it was a terrific bargain. ($5.99, Trader Joe's; between $5 and $9 from other merchants). This was the color of pale toast, and had aromas of lemon, bread dough, and apple. Lemon and white grapefruit dominate the flavors and produce a very light, refreshing wine that is great value.

Remember, this is supposed to be the season of joy. Put that cookbook down and get some takeout. There's plenty of time to make fricasee and beef daube later. After the packages are wrapped.

Winery Watch: Navarro Vineyards

An ongoing series of Friday posts highlighting California family wineries. You might not be familiar with all of these vineyards and winemakers--yet--but they produce wines that speak with the voices of this state's people, places, and history. They are worth seeking out. These posts will be longer than most posts on the blog, but I hope you will find them perfect for leisurely weekend reading and internet browsing. To read previous posts in the series, click here.

Tucked into the hills just off Highway 128 in Mendocino County is a winery that produces cult wines for the common person. Navarro Vineyards is something of a cult favorite among people like you and me--folks who like fine wine, who appreciate when wine reflects the place where the grapes are grown and the varieties that go into it, and who don't want to spend an absolute fortune to drink it. Thanks to Ted Bennett and his partner in life and work, Deborah Cahn, it's been possible for ordinary people to drink extraordinary wine ever since they started Navarro Vineyards in 1974.

When Ted and Deborah began working the land and planting their vineyards, vineyards were few and far between in the Anderson Valley. They took over a former sheep ranch, and planted unfashionable varieties for the time, such as pinot noir, gewurztraminer, pinot gris, chardonnay, muscat blanc, and riesling. If this makes you think "Alsace," there is a reason. Ted and Deborah love the wines of that region, and they are perfectly suited to the Anderson Valley's soil and climate. Critics agree. The wines are regularly praised by Dan Berger, who frequently includes specific bottlings in the recommendations he makes for exciting and high value wines in Tom Stevenson's annual Wine Report (ps., the new edition is just released, so you may want to pick up the 2008 Wine Report now).

Today Navarro Vineyards is still a family affair, with Ted and Deborah working alongside their children Aaron and Sarah. If you are lucky enough to visit, you will feel like family too as you are welcomed into the friendly tasting room, given complimentary tours and pours, and lead over the hills, past the llamas, and into the rooms where the huge oak casks hold the wine until its ready to be bottled and sold to consumers like you and me. This is a working farm, run by people who love the land and live as lightly as possible on it, using cover crops and sheep to enrich the soil instead of chemical fertilizers. (photo of Ted, Deborah, Aaron, and Sarah, along with their beloved dachshund, from Navarro Vineyards)

Navarro Vineyards devotees are usually members of the Pre-Release Club, which delivers a personal stash of Navarro wines to you each June and December at 10-33% discounts. The friends I visited the vineyard with late this summer are members of the club, and were able to pick up some of their wines while they were there. They were even kind enough to share a bottle of Navarro's special pinot noir, the Deep-End Blend, with me over dinner after our day out in the Anderson Valley.

Below you will find my tasting notes for the wines I tasted recently at the vineyard. Prices indicated here are the suggested retail prices at the winery; as always the price you pay may be higher or lower at your local merchant. Clicking on a wine's name takes you either to a list of merchants who stock the wine, or to Navarro's online store where you can order what you want and have them shipped directly to you as long as your state allows it. Navarro wines can be hard to find in retail stores, because Ted and Deborah prefer to keep their prices low, cut out the middle-men and middle-women, and sell directly to their customers. With wine this good, and prices this reasonable, who can argue with their plan?

2005 Navarro Vineyards Pinot Noir ($18) I promised you I would tell you when I found a really good pinot noir under $20. I found it, and I'm telling you, this is excellent QPR. Rose aromas and juicy black cherry fruit usher you into the equally juice cherry flavors. There is medium toast on the mid-palate and a good balance already for a young wine between fruit, spice, and acidity. Not as complex as the Methode a l'Ancienne pinot noir, but a great deal for the price.

2004 Navarro Vineyards Pinot Noir "Méthode à l'Ancienne" ($25-$35) Really impressed with this year's bottling. I tasted nuts and earth, along with mushroomy and truffley notes, that accent the core of bright acidity and cherry fruit. I think it will age very, very nicely. Excellent QPR.

2005 Navarro Vineyards Navarrouge ($12) Eight red varietals, including syrah, cabernet, pinot noir, and carignan go into this excellent QPR wine that should be a leading contender for your house red. Cherry blossom aromas, black cherry flavors with a fair amount of oak in the midpalate, but it's interesting and flavorful. I suspect it will be even better in 4-8 months. This is one to buy by the case and just have on hand for when friends drop by at the holidays.

2006 Navarro Vineyards Edelzwicker ($12). A lovely wine for the money, made from riesling, gewurztraminer, and pinot gris grapes. Enticing flower aromas, with a palate of litchi and lime. Our favorite wine to have with Thanksgiving leftovers, or for any holiday lunch, don't be surprised when this turns up on my holiday wine picks this year. Excellent QPR.

2005 Navarro Vineyards Muscat Estate Bottled Dry (around $18 if you can find it). This is a wild, wild wine with pure orange blossom aromas and a searingly crisp and dry lemony palate and finish. Very clean wine, and schizophrenic in a good way--or at least a way that works! Perfect for sushi with wasabi. Very good QPR.

2004 Navarro Vineyards Syrah ($22) Huckleberry and cranberry dominate the fruity notes in this syrah. Good acidity, but I would prefer to taste more spice. I think this wine will continue to develop, though. Good QPR.

2005 Navarro Vineyards Pinot Noir Deep End Blend (price N/A). This wine has a lot of potential and is already drinking beautifully. High-toned cherry and cinnamon on first opening, with a dark ruby color. As it opens up notes of cedar, cocoa powder, and blackberry enter into the palate and aromas. Continued to develop and gain complexity as we drained the bottle. Wait a year and check again, but I think this one will age well and develop in interesting ways. This will be expensive if you can get it (as in more than $40), but it is an awfully complex pinot and good QPR.

2003 Navarro Vineyards Riesling ($18-$19). Very good dry riesling with apple and apricot fruit and a little tropical fruit lift in the midpalate. This resembles a German kabinett, but lacks the mineral dimension to make it outstanding. Good QPR.

2006 Navarro Vineyards Pinot Noir Deep End Blend (Barrel sample; not yet released). Beautiful color and pinot texture on this wine, with rich cherry flavors and nice cedary notes underneath with some earth, mushroom, and thyme. Lots of acidity now, giving the wine the structure that promises great things to come. Will be more than $40 if you can get it, but in time it is likely to be worth every penny. Good QPR.

Navarro Vineyards has a great website, with detailed information on every wine that they make. They also answer their email, so if you have a question or want to check to see if they have any bottles of that dry muscat hanging around, don't hesitate to drop them a line or give them a call. If you are a Navarro fan, feel free to leave notes about your own favorites in the comments below.

Surf's Up--the Wine

Penguins. They're everywhere this summer. On the big screen. Even on wine bottles.

The folks at Little Penguin sent me a press sample bottle of this summer's special release wine, a blend of Chardonnay and Riesling that is designed to be a simple summer white. If you needed a clue about its contents, the surfing penguin on the label has pretty much captured its essence. It's all about relatively mindless summer fun--and there's nothing wrong with that.

The 2006 Little Penguin "Summer White" ($7.99; between $6.50 and $8.5o from many merchants) is made of an unorthodox blend of chardonnay and riesling. I honestly couldn't figure out what they were going for here, but when I opened it I think I understood: this is the white wine answer to shiraz-viognier. The chardonnay provides the body, Granny Smith apple aromas and flavors, and a vanillin tinge. The riesling provides flowery aromatics and a softness that lightens up the heavier chardonnay texture. If you like simple chardonnays, this wine is priced right and is not loaded down with artificial tasting oak. It is also fairly true to the varietal characteristics of both wines that went into it, so I give it good QPR.

The Little Penguin Summer White is a wine that tastes mostly of chardonnay--with a summery whiff of flowers that helps the wine go down smoothly and easily. This is not a wine to ponder. It is a wine to take to a picnic, to have with crab cakes under an umbrella by the beach, or pop open with some simple grilled chicken. Oddly enough, to do so you will need a corkscrew since this was bottled with a synthetic cork rather than a more sensible screwcap. Too bad, because the folks at Little Penguin missed a perfect opportunity to match form, function, and message there.